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Routes in Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirque

Alexander's Chimney T WI4 M4
Chasm Lake Outlet WI2+
Columbine Falls T WI3
Crazy Train T WI5
Dark Star (probably not Right Chimney) T WI3+ M5-
Dovetail Right AI2-3 M1-2
Dreamweaver T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c M2
Duncan Did it First T M5
Eighth Route, The T WI3- M3+
Field's Chimney T WI5 M6+
Flying Dutchman, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c WI2-3
Gully Left of Zumie's Thumb aka Smith's Route T M5
Joe's Solo WI3+ M3
Kiener's Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Easy Snow
Lamb's Slide T Easy Snow
Left of Columbine Falls T WI3
Martha T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a WI2+ M2-3
North Chimney T M4
North Face / Cables Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a M2-3
Notch Couloir, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Mod. Snow
Schobinger's Cracks T WI5 M6
Ship's Prow Ice T WI5 M5 R
Smear of Fear T WI5 M6 R
South Face / Lady Washington T WI5 M5-6 R
Zumie's Chimney T WI3 M3
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 375 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,632 total, 14/month
Shared By: mattb19 on Jun 17, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

The climb starts at the top of a bunch of large boulders. Scramble up the rock for about 15 ft to the base of the corner. From here, you can get a belay anchor with some nuts and a cam if you feel uncomfortable with the nuts.

Pitch 1
Climb up loose rock and, depending on the year, very thin ice for about 50 meters. This pitch follows a small chimney with ice and moss. As soon as you leave the belay you will enter the chimney and look for a fixed piton on your left. From there, follow the chimney while finding spots for nuts and TCUs. In a thick ice year, it looks like you might get some screws. Climb to right below a wide offwidth chimney and setup a belay. You will find a good spot right after you pass a second piton.

Pitch 2
Squeeze your way up the chimney above you to gain the ice. You will have a good 20 feet depending on the year before you get ice. This part is very hard to protect. You can take big pro, but the rock is very loose so who knows if it will hold. Once you hit the ice, the route becomes very nice but still hard to find pro and scary. Gear anchor on top.

If anyone has any better beta, feel free to chime in. I have only seen this route once and am giving info on what conditions I ran into.

Location

The route is located on the climbers right of the Ship's Prow. It is on the left side of the shore of Chasm Lake.

Protection

2 13cm screws, a set of nuts, a set of TCUs, a 2.5 Tech Friends, some knifeblades (#2 shorts) would be nice if you have to bail or find cracks iced up, standard alpine draws (around 10).

Photos

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