WI5 M5 R
Avg: 2 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 375 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II|
|Page Views:||1,925 total · 14/month|
|Shared By:||mattb19 on Jun 17, 2008|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
Climb up loose rock and, depending on the year, very thin ice for about 50 meters. This pitch follows a small chimney with ice and moss. As soon as you leave the belay you will enter the chimney and look for a fixed piton on your left. From there, follow the chimney while finding spots for nuts and TCUs. In a thick ice year, it looks like you might get some screws. Climb to right below a wide offwidth chimney and setup a belay. You will find a good spot right after you pass a second piton.
Squeeze your way up the chimney above you to gain the ice. You will have a good 20 feet depending on the year before you get ice. This part is very hard to protect. You can take big pro, but the rock is very loose so who knows if it will hold. Once you hit the ice, the route becomes very nice but still hard to find pro and scary. Gear anchor on top.
If anyone has any better beta, feel free to chime in. I have only seen this route once and am giving info on what conditions I ran into.