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Routes in Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirque

Alexander's Chimney T WI4 M4
Chasm Lake Outlet WI2+
Columbine Falls T WI3
Crazy Train T WI5
Dark Star (probably not Right Chimney) T WI3+ M5-
Dovetail Right AI2-3 M1-2
Dreamweaver T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c M2
Duncan Did it First T M5
Eighth Route, The T WI3- M3+ Mod. Snow
Field's Chimney T WI5 M6+
Flying Dutchman, The T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c WI2-3
Gully Left of Zumie's Thumb aka Smith's Route T M5 Steep Snow
Joe's Solo WI3+ M3
Kiener's Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Easy Snow
Lamb's Slide T Easy Snow
Left of Columbine Falls T WI3
Martha T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a WI2+ M2-3
North Chimney T M4
North Face / Cables Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a M2-3
Notch Couloir, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Mod. Snow
Schobinger's Cracks T WI5 M6
Ship's Prow Ice T WI5 M5 R
Smear of Fear T WI5 M6 R
South Face / Lady Washington T WI5 M5-6 R
Zumie's Chimney T WI3 M3
Unsorted Routes:
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Type: Trad, Mixed, Snow, Alpine, 1500 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: Possibly Rob Smith and Ben Collett, September 2014
Page Views: 709 total · 15/month
Shared By: Ben Collett on Sep 12, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a good route to do when early season over-enthusiasm gets the best of you. You get to work out the legs on some steep snow and moderate mixed climbing until the last 300 feet where things get a bit more challenging.

Climb Lamb's Slide past Zumie's Thumb, and head up the gully to the left of the thumb. If your timing is right, you'll find some steep neve and some easy mixed climbing. At the top of the snow, there is a rock pillar with chimney systems on both sides. Climb into the left chimney system and follow it loosely for 180 feet to a nice belay on its left side below a huge chockstone. Get back in the chimney system, and take it to the top past a chockstone tunnel and a hard sequence of moves getting into a squeeze chimney.

Protection

A light rock rack.

Photos

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