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Routes in Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirque

Alexander's Chimney T WI4 M4
Chasm Lake Outlet WI2+
Columbine Falls T WI3
Crazy Train T WI5
Dark Star (probably not Right Chimney) T WI3+ M5-
Dovetail Right AI2-3 M1-2
Dreamweaver T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c M2
Duncan Did it First T M5
Eighth Route, The T WI3- M3+
Field's Chimney T WI5 M6+
Flying Dutchman, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c WI2-3
Gully Left of Zumie's Thumb aka Smith's Route T M5
Joe's Solo WI3+ M3
Kiener's Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Easy Snow
Lamb's Slide T Easy Snow
Left of Columbine Falls T WI3
Martha T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a WI2+ M2-3
North Chimney T M4
North Face / Cables Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a M2-3
Notch Couloir, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Mod. Snow
Schobinger's Cracks T WI5 M6
Ship's Prow Ice T WI5 M5 R
Smear of Fear T WI5 M6 R
South Face / Lady Washington T WI5 M5-6 R
Zumie's Chimney T WI3 M3
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Mixed, Alpine, 800 ft, 4 pitches
FA: if he didn't, then R. Smith and B. Collett, Oct. 2014
Page Views: 611 total, 16/month
Shared By: Ben Collett on Oct 20, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This route looks like crap from most locations but is surprisingly fun.

P1. Climb the rocky terrain, following the most fun climbing to the terrace below the iced up chimney. If you are lucky, there will be bits of ice here and there, M3 80m.

P2. Move the belay to below the icy chimney, 35m.

P3. Climb the icy chimney. There is gear to be had in the chockstone-esque feature and then really good gear on the left wall about 8 feet higher. Belay below steps of thin rolling ice, M5 35m.

P4. Climb the most fun line up the ice, WI3 90m.

Location

Look for a smear and an iced up chimney north east of the ranger cabin below Chasm Lake.

Protection

Regular rock rack and maybe a screw or two. A couple of pins are nice to have.

Photos

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