Baknnator Indirect

This is an alternate, harder, and cooler finish to Wobbly Baknn Strips (see that page for the approach, descent, and gear info). If you're still craving more Baknn after the first three pitches of WBS, this one is for you.

On the first ascent of WBS with Maury Birdwell at the end of October, 2025, I found myself pretty worked at the top of pitch three. The proudest finish, a diagonal crack cutting up left from the belay past two more icicles through the gently overhung headwall, looked beautiful but also harder than I felt like trying at the time So we took the "easy" way out, the M7+ splitter dihedral straight up, but the next day I was already dreaming of the proud finish. Josh Wharton was game to have a look, so a week and a half later, I headed back up to the Diamond with him. We climbed as follows:

From the big icy ledge atop the third (ice) pitch of WBS, six crack systems shoot up to the top of the headwall. Baknnator Indirect climbs the third crack system from the left, the one with two prominent icicles (if formed). From the belay, climb up and left past a small ice pillar, to gain left-angling seams in imperfect rock. Follow these seams, with better protection than is first apparent, up and left into a right-facing dihedral. Climb this up to the first icicle, and follow that to the small roof. Cruxy climbing leads through the roof and onto a second, smaller icicle above it. From there, try to stay relaxed following the steep seams into the wide crack above, where the system you're following becomes a left-facing dihedral. At the top of the wide crack, a final section of veggie seams leads over the lip of the headwall. Climb easier terrain straight up to the offwidth, and above that a final section of steeper climbing guards the big ledge atop pitch four of WBS after 65 meters. The first 35 meters of this pitch are real-deal, sustained M8, a rarity in North American high mountains, and even had a few sticks in ice along the way.

If you haven't quite had your fill of Baknn, finish by climbing straight up the splitter, right-facing corner above the belay with sinker hooks and bomber gear (M5). Otherwise, head right to exit as per WBS.

It is atop the third pitch of Wobbly Baknn Strips (see that page for more).

The same gear as for Wobbly Baknn Strips.