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Routes in Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirque

Alexander's Chimney T WI4 M4
Chasm Lake Outlet WI2+
Columbine Falls T WI3
Crazy Train T WI5
Dark Star (probably not Right Chimney) T WI3+ M5-
Dovetail Right AI2-3 M1-2
Dreamweaver T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c M2
Duncan Did it First T M5
Eighth Route, The T WI3- M3+ Mod. Snow
Field's Chimney T WI5 M6+
Flying Dutchman, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c WI2-3
Gully Left of Zumie's Thumb aka Smith's Route T M5 Steep Snow
Joe's Solo WI3+ M3
Kiener's Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Easy Snow
Lamb's Slide T Easy Snow
Left of Columbine Falls T WI3
Martha T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a WI2+ M2-3
North Chimney T M4
North Face / Cables Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a M2-3
Notch Couloir, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Mod. Snow
Schobinger's Cracks T WI5 M6
Ship's Prow Ice T WI5 M5 R
Smear of Fear T WI5 M6 R
South Face / Lady Washington T WI5 M5-6 R
Zumie's Chimney T WI3 M3
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 200 ft, 2 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,169 total · 23/month
Shared By: Greg Sievers on Oct 25, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Stories of ice climbs on the south face have been around since the early 1980s. This is quintessential, ephemeral ice. Forms in 1-3 days when it's cold and cloudy, and because is due south facing can be gone in a few hours.

October 22, 2006
Mt. Lady Washington ice is IN and was fuckin' awesome. Thick by her account.
I led 2 mixed M5-WI4-5 pitches on the far right side of the south face. It's a pretty obvious slab leading to a column in a corner. The real meat is the start of the second pitch - with a plumb 2' x 2' laminated post x 60' tall. Short sections of verglas above that as it leads into a moderate chimney but only a few consecutive thin moves at a time 'til you can stick some 4" wad. The rock pro was scarce (but you'll want a full single rack) but stubbies usually went all the way in. (I did not use any pins). I left a 2 nut anchor above and 20' right of the top pitch - and a 60m rap put us back to the start.

I broke it into 2 pitches because I couldn't judge the distances and there's a good size wide step between the 2. As usual, much of the ice is brittle, but there were nice soft spots at the top of each cruxy area. The trail is nicely snow covered and walks well - the Lady Wash traverse trail is getting drifted in by wind but doesn't warrant snowshoes.

Someone could also do a 200' traverse to the left from the top of the 2nd pitch, and explore what looks like another 2 pitches in the central upper portion of the wall.

The stuff on the far left, that emanated from the base of a huge black roof, looks wicked and rad. Too tuff for me tho'.

The blustery cloud cover allowed us a good, windy, cold day. 20 degree w/ 20mph wind & gusts to 40. The usual spindrift. I'm glad I threw on the extra layer and mircofleece vest. Gortex jacket w/ a hood was a must due to the wicked spindrift and white tornados.


Directly above Peacock Pool, where the Long's Peak/Chasm Meadow trail traverses the South Face of Mount Lady Washington.


A half dozen screws if you're lucky and a single rock rack. Maybe pins.


Greg Sievers
Bozeman, MT
Greg Sievers   Bozeman, MT
There used to be a photo with this page. Webmother, any idea what happened to it? Mar 13, 2017
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
Greg, not that I am a webmother, I vaguely remember there being one, but a contributor can delete the photo on her/his own if there are no child objects attached to it, e.g. comments. Mar 13, 2017

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