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Routes in Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirque

Alexander's Chimney T WI4 M4
Chasm Lake Outlet WI2+
Columbine Falls T WI3
Crazy Train T WI5
Dark Star (probably not Right Chimney) T WI3+ M5-
Dovetail Right AI2-3 M1-2
Dreamweaver T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c M2
Duncan Did it First T M5
Eighth Route, The T WI3- M3+
Field's Chimney T WI5 M6+
Flying Dutchman, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c WI2-3
Gully Left of Zumie's Thumb aka Smith's Route T M5
Joe's Solo WI3+ M3
Kiener's Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Easy Snow
Lamb's Slide T Easy Snow
Left of Columbine Falls T WI3
Martha T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a WI2+ M2-3
North Chimney T M4
North Face / Cables Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a M2-3
Notch Couloir, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Mod. Snow
Schobinger's Cracks T WI5 M6
Ship's Prow Ice T WI5 M5 R
Smear of Fear T WI5 M6 R
South Face / Lady Washington T WI5 M5-6 R
Zumie's Chimney T WI3 M3
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 900 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: A while ago
Page Views: 4,789 total, 35/month
Shared By: eric harvey on Oct 25, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

The Eighth route is the large gully just to the left of the Notch Couloir. It is just a large gully that goes all the way to the Palisades. In good conditions, there could be 500 feet of 60 degree ice in the lower part and possibly a WI4 chimney at the top.

Here's what it did have:

P1. Head straight up from Alexander's and pass the wall guarding the gully on the left at M2.

P2. Trend up and a bit right into the main gully. Could be good ice here, but we had thin ice and lots of turf (at least its bomber), not much pro. Some simulclimbing, WI2 M2, 300 feet.

P3-4. Climbing the gully till it ends below two chimneys. Snow covered rock steps... M2+ ?

P5. Traverse right up a thin slab (crux) and stretch to rope up to a very exposed position over looking the huge wall that forms the left side of the notch couloir.

P6. Sweeeeeeet. One M3+ move around a block with huge air below.

You can now rap into the Notch, if you can find the rap station (we couldn't) or you can walk off the back and descend the Loft or Lamb's Slide.

Location

This is just above Alexander's.

Protection

Few screws, standard alpine rack, Specters.
Captain America
Longmont, CO
Captain America   Longmont, CO
Climbed 5-4-12 as link-up with Alexander's Chimney 'middle 4th pitch to Broadway'. To save time, we lead the left start and simul-climbed the snow pitches. Pitch 5/6 were all dry-tooling with no snow/ice. Pick locks are pretty good, but the feet are really thin with crampons. Again, you are standing on dime-width sized rock features with front or side pts. Your calves will burn after this one. Pitch 5 has some blank slab moves without the ice, I'd call it M5 dry. There are a couple sections with feet as smooth as on Hallett's 'Bullet' route. BEWARE of loose blocks. Many of the blocks along this slab are not attached, as we soon found out. We broke up pitch 5, but you might just make it to the belay with 60m (bring lots of gear). May 9, 2012
Chris Sheridan
Boulder, CO
Chris Sheridan   Boulder, CO
To add to Eric's description (now that I've finally gotten around to climbing this route), there is often an alternate start to the right. Instead of climbing the left side of the face guarding the gully, climb the right side. Ice (often thin), good edges, and of course turf down low leads to better and steeper ice through a short chimney (lots of fun). M4 200ft. A belay at the end of this pitch was a little hard to find, but we eventually found one a little up and right from the ice. Apr 9, 2012
The rap anchor at the top of the Notch Couloir is a bit tricky to find. From the high point above the notch, walk downhill to the east about 20 or so feet and there should be a large separated block to your left just below the cliff edge. The anchor is around the base of this block and requires a couple of easy moves to get down to it. One 60m rope will make it but leaves you with about 20' of easy scrambling to get to the base of the notch. Oct 22, 2007