The Eighth Route
Avg: 1.5 from 4 votes
Routes in Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirque
|Alexander's Chimney T WI4 M4|
|Chasm Lake Outlet WI2+|
|Columbine Falls T WI3|
|Crazy Train T WI5|
|Dark Star (probably not Right Chimney) T WI3+ M5-|
|Dovetail Right AI2-3 M1-2|
|Dreamweaver T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c M2|
|Duncan Did it First T M5|
|Eighth Route, The T WI3- M3+|
|Field's Chimney T WI5 M6+|
|Flying Dutchman, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c WI2-3|
|Gully Left of Zumie's Thumb aka Smith's Route T M5|
|Joe's Solo WI3+ M3|
|Kiener's Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Easy Snow|
|Lamb's Slide T Easy Snow|
|Left of Columbine Falls T WI3|
|Martha T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a WI2+ M2-3|
|North Chimney T M4|
|North Face / Cables Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a M2-3|
|Notch Couloir, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Mod. Snow|
|Schobinger's Cracks T WI5 M6|
|Ship's Prow Ice T WI5 M5 R|
|Smear of Fear T WI5 M6 R|
|South Face / Lady Washington T WI5 M5-6 R|
|Zumie's Chimney T WI3 M3|
|Type:||Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 900 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||A while ago|
|Page Views:||4,789 total, 35/month|
|Shared By:||eric harvey on Oct 25, 2006|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThe Eighth route is the large gully just to the left of the Notch Couloir. It is just a large gully that goes all the way to the Palisades. In good conditions, there could be 500 feet of 60 degree ice in the lower part and possibly a WI4 chimney at the top.
Here's what it did have:
P1. Head straight up from Alexander's and pass the wall guarding the gully on the left at M2.
P2. Trend up and a bit right into the main gully. Could be good ice here, but we had thin ice and lots of turf (at least its bomber), not much pro. Some simulclimbing, WI2 M2, 300 feet.
P3-4. Climbing the gully till it ends below two chimneys. Snow covered rock steps... M2+ ?
P5. Traverse right up a thin slab (crux) and stretch to rope up to a very exposed position over looking the huge wall that forms the left side of the notch couloir.
P6. Sweeeeeeet. One M3+ move around a block with huge air below.
You can now rap into the Notch, if you can find the rap station (we couldn't) or you can walk off the back and descend the Loft or Lamb's Slide.