Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 900 ft (273 m), 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: A while ago
Page Views: 6,500 total · 30/month
Shared By: eric harvey on Oct 25, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

The Eighth route is the large gully just to the left of the Notch Couloir. It is just a large gully that goes all the way to the Palisades. In good conditions, there could be 500 feet of 60 degree ice in the lower part and possibly a WI4 chimney at the top.

Here's what it did have:

P1. Head straight up from Alexander's and pass the wall guarding the gully on the left at M2.

P2. Trend up and a bit right into the main gully. Could be good ice here, but we had thin ice and lots of turf (at least its bomber), not much pro. Some simulclimbing, WI2 M2, 300 feet.

P3-4. Climbing the gully till it ends below two chimneys. Snow covered rock steps... M2+ ?

P5. Traverse right up a thin slab (crux) and stretch to rope up to a very exposed position over looking the huge wall that forms the left side of the notch couloir.

P6. Sweeeeeeet. One M3+ move around a block with huge air below.

You can now rap into the Notch, if you can find the rap station (we couldn't) or you can walk off the back and descend the Loft or Lamb's Slide.

Location Suggest change

This is just above Alexander's.

Protection Suggest change

Few screws, standard alpine rack, Specters.