Type: Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Tyler Kempney Wes Fowler
Page Views: 729 total · 44/month
Shared By: Anus Herder on Nov 20, 2018
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Conditional Love climbs the center smear in the roof-alcove area on the lower east face of Long's between Morning Dew and Crazy Train. 2018 marks the first time this smear has formed to a climbable state in nearly 20 years. This is one of the most continuous steep ice routes in Colorado and one of the best if I'm not too biased.

The first pitch climbs up a series lower angle ramps and mixed climbing all protected on gear. It finishes with a thin spot of ice at a bolted anchor. Pitch 2 is the money. Traverse out right on the flake, and transfer onto steep and thin ice for 50m! As the ice begins to get thicker near the top, the angle kicks back to almost more than vertical. Bring a bucket of endurance for this one.

When Tyler and Wes first climbed this route, the first 60 feet of the main ice flow were protected only by girth hitched stubbies! Every kick and swing was to the rock, this thing can be thin! We went back two weeks later to a pleasant surprise of sewing up the whole flow with 13cm ice screws in thicker conditions. Ice changes quickly out here.

Descent: do 2 double-rope raps. 2 70m ropes get you close to the ground from the top pitch but doesn't quite make it.

For GANGSTAz:

Conditionizzle Ludd climbs tha centa smear up in tha roof-alcove area on tha lower eastside grill of Long's between Mornin Dew n' Crazy-Ass Train. I ain't talkin' bout chicken n' gravy, biatch. 2018 marks tha last time dis smear has formed ta a cold-ass lil climbable state up in nearly 20 years. This is one of da most thugged-out continuous steep ice routes up in Colorado n' one of tha dopest if I'm not too biased. Y'all KNOW dat shit, mutha! Da first pitch climbs up a series lower angle ramps n' mixed climbin all protected on gear. It finishes wit a thin spot of ice at a funky-ass bolted anchor. Shiiit, dis ain't no joke. Pitch 2 is tha scrilla. Traverse up right on tha flake n' transfer onto steep n' thin ice fo' 50m! As tha ice begins ta git thicker near tha top, tha angle kicks back ta almost mo' than vertical. Brang a funky-ass bucket of endurizzle fo' dis one.

When Tyla n' Wes first climbed dis route, tha straight-up original gangsta 60 feet of tha main ice flow was protected only by girth hitched stubbies, muthaf*cka! Every kick n' swin was ta tha rock, dis thang can be thin! Us thugs went back two weeks lata ta a pleasant surprise of sewin' up tha whole flow wit 13cm ice screws up in thicker conditions. Ice chizzlez quick up here.

Descent: 2 double-rope raps. 2 70m ropes git you close ta tha ground from tha top pitch but don't like make dat shit.

Location

This is the center smear on the Lower East Face of Long's Peak.

Protection

A single rack for the 1st pitch, 8 screws, multiple stubbies, and screamers. Anchor: fixed Tricams and a lone bolt.

Photos

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