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Routes in Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirque

Alexander's Chimney T WI4 M4
Chasm Lake Outlet WI2+
Columbine Falls T WI3
Crazy Train T WI5
Dark Star (probably not Right Chimney) T WI3+ M5-
Dovetail Right AI2-3 M1-2
Dreamweaver T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c M2
Duncan Did it First T M5
Eighth Route, The T WI3- M3+
Field's Chimney T WI5 M6+
Flying Dutchman, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c WI2-3
Gully Left of Zumie's Thumb aka Smith's Route T M5
Joe's Solo WI3+ M3
Kiener's Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Easy Snow
Lamb's Slide T Easy Snow
Left of Columbine Falls T WI3
Martha T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a WI2+ M2-3
North Chimney T M4
North Face / Cables Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a M2-3
Notch Couloir, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Mod. Snow
Schobinger's Cracks T WI5 M6
Ship's Prow Ice T WI5 M5 R
Smear of Fear T WI5 M6 R
South Face / Lady Washington T WI5 M5-6 R
Zumie's Chimney T WI3 M3
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 600 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Wickens, 1930
Page Views: 300 total, 33/month
Shared By: Ryan Marsters on Feb 19, 2017
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This route makes for a fine outing in the shoulder seasons and winter. Conditions range from easy 5th Class and AI2 to M1-2 and steep snow. The cruxes are short, and the views are stellar.

The Dovetail is the snowfield between the Cables and the Keyhole.

Climb moderate to steep snow or icy snow as high as it goes around right, about where the Keyhole Ridge initial ledges end.

P1. The start of this pitch could have AI2 to 2+ or steep snow to contend with, leading to a chimney. The chimney, hidden from view on the approach, is around M1 or easy fifth. It is mostly stemming. The crux section is perhaps 30 feet, and the rest is on much easier terrain.

P2. The main gully angles right. Follow steep snow or AI2 to the left side of the rock. Note a ramp angling from left to right. Follow this, mostly 3rd-4th, until a slabby topout. The slab is a two-move wonder at perhaps M2 or 5.5ish. Belay above in blocky terrain.

P3. A couple options here around M1/5.easy. All fairly slabby and runout, though with good rests. Head straight up shallow, low angle slab and dihedral or follow a ledge right prior to heading up. Intersect the Keyhole Ridge just prior to the final 4th Class step.

Scramble past the Keyhole Ridge step via airy left side ledges. At a notch, it is easiest to descend a bit on the left/north side prior to climbing back up. Or balance along a ledge with some interesting exposure and moves. Take the path of least resistance up to the summit. It is 2nd Class with one brief 3rd Class gully.

DESCENT: walk off Keyhole or Loft, or descend Cables (usually 1 double or 2 single rappels off eyebolts). It helps to know how to find Cables.

Location

It is on Long's Peak North Face, roughly halfway between Cables and the Keyhole. This is a large, permanent snowfield that looks like a dove tail, since we all supposedly know what a dove tail looks like. Aim for the highest point of the tail where it heads up and left behind a buttress.

Protection

A light alpine rack, perhaps a couple short screws in shoulder seasons.

Photos

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