Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, Grade III
FA: Jeff Lowe, Duncan Ferguson, Malcolm Daly
Page Views: 20,597 total · 93/month
Shared By: Malcolm Daly on Nov 6, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is the obvious smear to the right of Stettner's Ledges dihedrals. If it reaches the ground, climb directly up. It's usually pretty thin down there when it reaches so be ready for 40' of unprotected climbing. If the Smear doesn't reach, climb in via diagonal thin cracks on the left. Pitch one is the crux either way. Belay above the overlaps from old bolts if they're not covered. Set up an ice belay otherwise. P2 cruises up rolling terrain to a belay under the large roofs. P3 may or may not be there. If it is, follow the ice.

Descent: Rap the route using pins, bolts, v-threads. There can be rock anchors on the right side for 2 x 200' raps. From high up, it may make sense to diagonal over to Stettner's for the descent.

Protection

Stuff to protect a finger crack (Cams to 1"), Spectres, short ice screws, 17cm ice screws, pins.

Photos