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Routes in Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirque

Alexander's Chimney T WI4 M4
Chasm Lake Outlet WI2+
Columbine Falls T WI3
Crazy Train T WI5
Dark Star (probably not Right Chimney) T WI3+ M5-
Dovetail Right AI2-3 M1-2
Dreamweaver T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c M2
Duncan Did it First T M5
Eighth Route, The T WI3- M3+
Field's Chimney T WI5 M6+
Flying Dutchman, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c WI2-3
Gully Left of Zumie's Thumb aka Smith's Route T M5
Joe's Solo WI3+ M3
Kiener's Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Easy Snow
Lamb's Slide T Easy Snow
Left of Columbine Falls T WI3
Martha T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a WI2+ M2-3
North Chimney T M4
North Face / Cables Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a M2-3
Notch Couloir, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Mod. Snow
Schobinger's Cracks T WI5 M6
Ship's Prow Ice T WI5 M5 R
Smear of Fear T WI5 M6 R
South Face / Lady Washington T WI5 M5-6 R
Zumie's Chimney T WI3 M3
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, Grade III
FA: Jeff Lowe, Duncan Ferguson, Malcolm Daly
Page Views: 18,129 total, 92/month
Shared By: Malcolm Daly on Nov 6, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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This is the obvious smear to the right of Stettner's Ledges dihedrals. If it reaches the ground, climb directly up. It's usually pretty thin down there when it reaches so be ready for 40' of unprotected climbing. If the Smear doesn't reach, climb in via diagonal thin cracks on the left. Pitch one is the crux either way. Belay above the overlaps from old bolts if they're not covered. Set up an ice belay otherwise. P2 cruises up rolling terrain to a belay under the large roofs. P3 may or may not be there. If it is, follow the ice.

Descent: Rap the route using pins, bolts, v-threads. There can be rock anchors on the right side for 2 x 200' raps. From high up, it may make sense to diagonal over to Stettner's for the descent.


Stuff to protect a finger crack (Cams to 1"), Spectres, short ice screws, 17cm ice screws, pins.
Greg Sievers
Bozeman, MT
Greg Sievers   Bozeman, MT
Perhaps route beta and conditions reports would be best provided after it's been climbed. That's just my opinion, I could be wrong? Oct 28, 2007
Don't think the Smear is going to happen this year guys. It is rumored to have been done, but that is quite unlikely especially considering the party that is said to have done it. The route has looked like it is going to fall down for about a month with no new ice in that time period. Two Estes locals climbed a new route near the Window last weekend. It is said to sport a couple of pitches of very steep ice and mixed. No word on how much new snow is up there after yesterday, but things are definately begining to sublimate away above tree line. Nov 11, 2004
Went to the Smear yesterday to see if it had come back in at all...and the answer is nope! The section below the second roof has no ice at all. It's gonna be awhile...maybe even next season. Oct 19, 2003
Tom Dickey  
The first pitch of the Smear sublimated two nights ago in the strong chinook winds. Oct 13, 2003
Tom Dickey  
Smear of Fear is gone-- the first pitch sublimated a two nights ago with the heavy chinook winds. Oct 13, 2003
Tom Dickey  
Smear is in-- did it yesterday. not bonded to the rock well, and parts were threatening to come off, but is still forming. Sep 29, 2003
I climbed the Smear in 2002 and left 3 scews 15 feet below the 3th pitch anchors. I would love to get these items back. Reward if found. Aug 3, 2003
Climbed the Smear on Tuesday. The bottom is not fat about 1/2 thick. We opted for the 5.10 traverse in from the left. I try tooled it and thought it to be about M5 or so with not great gear. I left 3 pins and 1 nut as they were pretty good, but don't treat them like bolts as they were hare to get and test. Where I hit the ice from the traverse it was about 1 inch quickly growing to take 11 cm srews then 13's shortle thereafter. Thin and delicate to pull the overlap then grade 4+ to the top. The ice is still well bonded the the rock but sublimination is starting to eat it away. The last pitch is now missing, starting at the upper dihedral. I think is normal though. A great route. The snow conditions were good for walking but be aware of wind slabs near the route as they are growing quickly.

Dale Nov 20, 2002