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Routes in Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirque
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Alexander's Chimney T WI4 M4 |
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Chasm Lake Outlet WI2+ |
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Columbine Falls T WI3 |
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Conditional Love WI5-6 M5 R |
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Crazy Train T WI5 |
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Dark Star (probably not Right Chimney) T WI3+ M5- |
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Dovetail Right AI2-3 M1-2 |
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Dreamweaver T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c M2 |
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Duncan Did it First T M5 |
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Eighth Route, The T WI3- M3+ Mod. Snow |
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Field's Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WI5 M6+ |
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Flying Dutchman, The T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c WI2-3 Mod. Snow |
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Give'r the Berries T M5+ |
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Gully Left of Zumie's Thumb aka Smith's Route T M5 Steep Snow |
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Joe's Solo WI3+ M3 |
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Kiener's Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Easy Snow |
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Lamb's Slide T Easy Snow |
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Left of Columbine Falls T WI3 |
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Martha T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a WI2+ M2-3 |
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North Chimney T M4 |
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North Face / Cables Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a M2-3 |
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Notch Couloir, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c AI2 M2-3 Mod. Snow |
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Schobinger's Cracks T WI5 M6 |
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Ship's Prow Ice T WI5 M5 R |
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Smear of Fear T WI5 M6 R |
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South Face / Lady Washington T WI5 M5-6 R |
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Zumie's Chimney T WI3 M3 |
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| Type: | Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, Grade III |
| FA: | Jeff Lowe, Duncan Ferguson, Malcolm Daly |
| Page Views: | 22,864 total · 88/month |
| Shared By: | Malcolm Daly on Nov 6, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This is the obvious smear to the right of Stettner's Ledges dihedrals. If it reaches the ground, climb directly up. It's usually pretty thin down there when it reaches so be ready for 40' of unprotected climbing. If the Smear doesn't reach, climb in via diagonal thin cracks on the left. Pitch one is the crux either way. Belay above the overlaps from old bolts if they're not covered. Set up an ice belay otherwise. P2 cruises up rolling terrain to a belay under the large roofs. P3 may or may not be there. If it is, follow the ice.
Descent: Rap the route using pins, bolts, v-threads. There can be rock anchors on the right side for 2 x 200' raps. From high up, it may make sense to diagonal over to Stettner's for the descent.
Descent: Rap the route using pins, bolts, v-threads. There can be rock anchors on the right side for 2 x 200' raps. From high up, it may make sense to diagonal over to Stettner's for the descent.
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