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Routes in Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirque

Alexander's Chimney T WI4 M4
Chasm Lake Outlet WI2+
Columbine Falls T WI3
Crazy Train T WI5
Dark Star (probably not Right Chimney) T WI3+ M5-
Dovetail Right AI2-3 M1-2
Dreamweaver T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c M2
Duncan Did it First T M5
Eighth Route, The T WI3- M3+
Field's Chimney T WI5 M6+
Flying Dutchman, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c WI2-3
Gully Left of Zumie's Thumb aka Smith's Route T M5
Joe's Solo WI3+ M3
Kiener's Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Easy Snow
Lamb's Slide T Easy Snow
Left of Columbine Falls T WI3
Martha T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a WI2+ M2-3
North Chimney T M4
North Face / Cables Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a M2-3
Notch Couloir, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Mod. Snow
Schobinger's Cracks T WI5 M6
Ship's Prow Ice T WI5 M5 R
Smear of Fear T WI5 M6 R
South Face / Lady Washington T WI5 M5-6 R
Zumie's Chimney T WI3 M3
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 350 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Duncan Ferguson, Thomas Mackey
Page Views: 1,806 total, 51/month
Shared By: Dylan Cousins on Dec 14, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

From what I can decipher in the Gillett guidebook, this is the long, left-trending corner/ chimney that begins about 150 yards right of the Cables route. This forms a really nice ice hose in wet years. In 2014, it looked great in October and still climbed well by December. In the fall of 2011, the ice did not form nearly as well and we backed off this route that December.

Location

This is 150 yards climber's right of the cables. It ascends the obvious, left-trending corner/ chimney.

Protection

A few screws and a light rack - the rock pro is sparse in this water polished groove.
Jonathan Awerbuch
Boulder, Colorado
  WI2 M2
Jonathan Awerbuch   Boulder, Colorado
  WI2 M2
What a great line. To add a little more about pro: I agree that it is sparse in spots. I used many tiny to medium nuts, mostly alloy offsets and RPs. I try to use cams in the alpine, because they are faster for the leader and for the second, but I couldn't place many here. I found a crack that took a few medium-sized cams for a good belay after most of a rope-length. A spectre may also come in handy. Dec 21, 2014