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Routes in Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirque

Alexander's Chimney T WI4 M4
Chasm Lake Outlet WI2+
Columbine Falls T WI3
Crazy Train T WI5
Dark Star (probably not Right Chimney) T WI3+ M5-
Dovetail Right AI2-3 M1-2
Dreamweaver T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c M2
Duncan Did it First T M5
Eighth Route, The T WI3- M3+
Field's Chimney T WI5 M6+
Flying Dutchman, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c WI2-3
Gully Left of Zumie's Thumb aka Smith's Route T M5
Joe's Solo WI3+ M3
Kiener's Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Easy Snow
Lamb's Slide T Easy Snow
Left of Columbine Falls T WI3
Martha T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a WI2+ M2-3
North Chimney T M4
North Face / Cables Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a M2-3
Notch Couloir, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Mod. Snow
Schobinger's Cracks T WI5 M6
Ship's Prow Ice T WI5 M5 R
Smear of Fear T WI5 M6 R
South Face / Lady Washington T WI5 M5-6 R
Zumie's Chimney T WI3 M3
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 800 ft, Grade III
FA: Joe Stettner as a summer route (5.6?) in 1936 though this solo ascent has been doubted by some
Page Views: 2,923 total, 26/month
Shared By: Chris Sheridan on Oct 1, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Joe's Solo begins on Broadway and climbs a deep cleft between The The Eighth Route and The Notch Couloir.

Climb one pitch of easy, blocky, mixed terrain to reach the base of the more difficult climbing.

The next pitch is likely WI3 when fully formed, or well protected M4 when in leaner conditions. In leaner conditions, climb up to a small, left-facing corner in the middle of the cleft, pull a small ice bulge then traverse left across a slab covered with a thin layer of ice. A steep ramp with a thin coating of ice then leads up to thicker ice up a right-facing corner.

Beyond the crux pitch, climb easier terrain up and left to join The The Eighth Route, or try your luck up the steep buttress above (5.7-5.8)

Thought the route has only a few good pitches, it can be combined with Alexander's Chimney to make for a great outing.

Location

The Route starts on Broadway, between The Eighth Route and The Notch Couloir. The descent to the Loft if probably the fastest way down, but rappelling into The Notch and continuing to the summit of Longs is also and option.

Protection

Protection varies with conditions, so use your best judgment. Pure ice sections are short and good rock pro can be found nearby, so only a few screws are necessary. 6 pins, cams to 3 inches, stoppers and a big #11 hex are useful in leaner conditions.

Photos

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