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Routes in Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirque

Alexander's Chimney T WI4 M4
Chasm Lake Outlet WI2+
Columbine Falls T WI3
Crazy Train T WI5
Dark Star (probably not Right Chimney) T WI3+ M5-
Dovetail Right AI2-3 M1-2
Dreamweaver T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c M2
Duncan Did it First T M5
Eighth Route, The T WI3- M3+
Field's Chimney T WI5 M6+
Flying Dutchman, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c WI2-3
Gully Left of Zumie's Thumb aka Smith's Route T M5
Joe's Solo WI3+ M3
Kiener's Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Easy Snow
Lamb's Slide T Easy Snow
Left of Columbine Falls T WI3
Martha T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a WI2+ M2-3
North Chimney T M4
North Face / Cables Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a M2-3
Notch Couloir, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Mod. Snow
Schobinger's Cracks T WI5 M6
Ship's Prow Ice T WI5 M5 R
Smear of Fear T WI5 M6 R
South Face / Lady Washington T WI5 M5-6 R
Zumie's Chimney T WI3 M3
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Mixed, Alpine, 500 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,858 total, 47/month
Shared By: Chris Sheridan on May 23, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

The North Chimney is often viewed as either that horrible, loose rock approach to The Diamond in the summer or if you're so inclined, that horrible loose snow approach to The Diamond in winter. However, in the spring this chimney forms up as a pretty decent mixed route. Broadway is a pretty amazing place to be this time of year, and rapping the Crack of Delight rappels is easy enough. The could also make an interesting start to either Kiener's or The Window.

The climbing starts out easy enough as the obvious snow gully leading up to Broadway. The climbing get progressively harder and more interesting, with the most difficult, steep, drytooling sections on the last pitch. Cut left at the end, hack through a snow flute, and flop over. Voila, you're on Broadway.

Protection

A standard mixed route of stoppers, cams to 2 inches, a few pins, and one ice screw.
Chris Sheridan
Boulder, CO
 
Chris Sheridan   Boulder, CO
 
it was pretty soggy when we were up there, but were on it pretty late in the day and it was during a warm spell. Hard to tell if it would be better later or earlier. Probably later, as the snow wasn't quite consolidate into true springtime snow quite yet. I bet things are pretty good up there right now. Jun 14, 2009
Scott Matz
Loveland, CO
Scott Matz   Loveland, CO
Congrads looked like a steller day, it seems like the north chimney route is better in the early season( with a little snow on it) would you agree. Jun 9, 2009