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Routes in Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirque
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Alexander's Chimney T WI4 M4 |
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Chasm Lake Outlet WI2+ |
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Columbine Falls T WI3 |
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Conditional Love WI5-6 M5 R |
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Crazy Train T WI5 |
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Dark Star (probably not Right Chimney) T WI3+ M5- |
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Dovetail Right AI2-3 M1-2 |
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Dreamweaver T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c M2 |
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Duncan Did it First T M5 |
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Eighth Route, The T WI3- M3+ Mod. Snow |
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Field's Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WI5 M6+ |
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Flying Dutchman, The T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c WI2-3 Mod. Snow |
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Give'r the Berries T M5+ |
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Gully Left of Zumie's Thumb aka Smith's Route T M5 Steep Snow |
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Joe's Solo WI3+ M3 |
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Kiener's Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Easy Snow |
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Lamb's Slide T Easy Snow |
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Left of Columbine Falls T WI3 |
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Martha T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a WI2+ M2-3 |
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North Chimney T M4 |
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North Face / Cables Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a M2-3 |
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Notch Couloir, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c AI2 M2-3 Mod. Snow |
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Schobinger's Cracks T WI5 M6 |
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Ship's Prow Ice T WI5 M5 R |
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Smear of Fear T WI5 M6 R |
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South Face / Lady Washington T WI5 M5-6 R |
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Zumie's Chimney T WI3 M3 |
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| Type: | Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 14,225 total · 57/month |
| Shared By: | David A. Turner on Sep 25, 2002 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
Dark Star lies in the chimney system to the right of the Flying Buttress on Mt. Meeker. It's hard to see the route until you are right underneath it.
Eds. note, it is often difficult to determine which route is Dark Star and which is Right Chimney. It appears this line here is likely Right Chimney.
Hike up snow slopes, to the right of the Flying Buttess. These are obvious in the attached picture. Head toward the deep recess. Climb a short, difficult section to get to the base of a chimney. Climb it. The first time I climbed this pitch it was filled-up with ice, turning it into an offwidth with great sticks in the back. The second time I climbed this pitch, there was not as much ice and the climbing was a bit more mixed and difficult. An excellent pitch.
Climb up the easier snow/ice gully for a full rope length. Continue up the steepening gully until you are blocked by overhanging rock. Figure out a way to get past this section, usually by climbing out left. Also an interesting pitch.
Ascend up to the summit. Descend via The Loft.
Eds. note, it is often difficult to determine which route is Dark Star and which is Right Chimney. It appears this line here is likely Right Chimney.
Hike up snow slopes, to the right of the Flying Buttess. These are obvious in the attached picture. Head toward the deep recess. Climb a short, difficult section to get to the base of a chimney. Climb it. The first time I climbed this pitch it was filled-up with ice, turning it into an offwidth with great sticks in the back. The second time I climbed this pitch, there was not as much ice and the climbing was a bit more mixed and difficult. An excellent pitch.
Climb up the easier snow/ice gully for a full rope length. Continue up the steepening gully until you are blocked by overhanging rock. Figure out a way to get past this section, usually by climbing out left. Also an interesting pitch.
Ascend up to the summit. Descend via The Loft.
Photos
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