Type: Trad, TR, Mixed, Ice, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: Alex Lowe, Dave Gustafson, 1981
Page Views: 14,750 total · 22/month
Shared By: Brad Brandewie on Nov 7, 2017 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Warning Access Issue: Regulations DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This is an excellent route when it is in condition. Approach as for Loch Vale ice climbs and continue around to the east face of the Loch Vale ice climbing area. Hike up the snow to a point where the traverse crack is obvious. The route traverses out this crack to the right and then climbs up to the ice curtain on its left. You then move right, onto the ice, and go for the top.

Protection Suggest change

Cams can be used to protect the traverse. There is a pin that can be clipped before committing to the ice. Ice screws protect the ice above.

Toprope Protection Suggest change

This is not the best route to toprope because the ice curtain is usually less than 5 inches thick at the bottom and is easily trashed. If you do TR, there is a large tree at the top of the climb.