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Routes in Loch Vale Gorge
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Brown Smear? T WI5- R |
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Crystal Meth Left T,TR WI3 M3 PG13 |
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Free Strike Zone T WI5 M7+ |
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Hydrogen Bondage M6-7 R |
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Icy Chim T M5-6 R |
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L of Lochluster T WI4 M4 |
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Loch Ness Monster (AKA Crystal Meth) T WI4+ |
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Lochluster T WI3 |
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M5? hand crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a WI4+ M5 R |
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Mixed Emotions T,TR WI5- M5 |
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Mixed Left of Mo Flo (aka "Big Girl Pants") T WI4- M5 R |
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Mo' Flo' Than Go T WI3 |
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Pointlessness T M7 |
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R of Lochluster TR WI4- |
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Replicant (unnamed) TR M6 |
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Rock & Ice (aka Lumberjack) T WI5+ M6+ R |
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Rock, Wood, Ice T WI5- R |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, Mixed, Ice, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Alex Lowe, Dave Gustafson, 1981 |
| Page Views: | 14,804 total · 22/month |
| Shared By: | Brad Brandewie on Nov 7, 2017 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This is an excellent route when it is in condition. Approach as for Loch Vale ice climbs and continue around to the east face of the Loch Vale ice climbing area. Hike up the snow to a point where the traverse crack is obvious. The route traverses out this crack to the right and then climbs up to the ice curtain on its left. You then move right, onto the ice, and go for the top.
Photos
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