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Routes in Loch Vale Gorge

Brown Smear? T WI5- R
Crystal Meth T WI4+
Free Strike Zone T WI5 M7+
Hydrogen Bondage M6-7 R
Icy Chim T M5-6 R
L of Lochluster T WI4 M4
Lochluster T WI3
M5? hand crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a WI4+ M5 R
Mixed Feelings T WI4 M5
Mixed Left of Mo Flo (aka "Big Girl Pants") T WI4- M5 R
Mo' Flo' Than Go T WI3
Pointlessness T M7
R of Lochluster TR WI4-
Replicant (unnamed) TR M6
Rock & Ice (aka Lumberjack) T WI5+ M6+ R
Rock, Wood, Ice T WI5- R
Type: Trad, Ice
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,467 total, 17/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Jan 5, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a moderate line that can be led on the R side of the Loch Vale Gorge area. It can be used to set up TR's for the thin climbs to the R. Inviting, but often thin, this frequently packs more of a mental punch than you might expect for a WI3. In fat conditions, it may be WI2+.

Previously, I had incorrectly labelled a line to the L as Lochluster; however, closer reading of the topo of Gillett's excellent guide suggests this is the line.

Find this line as the most moderate of the far R side of the cliff with a clearly-less-than-vertical ramp going up to a protuberant rock block. Dig out snow to find where the ice exists on this line. Be gentle with the ice as often it is quite thin here. Find fatter ice for screws and gain a stance below the final corner. Ice often peters out here. Move R onto a ledge and traverse R to a 2 bolt anchor. Rappel. 60ft.

Protection

Definitely bring stubbies (3-4), 1 medium screw.

Toprope Protection

Slings off 2 bolt anchor with a directional screw? above.

Photos

Joe M
Beckley, wv
  WI3-
Joe M   Beckley, wv
  WI3-
A fun easy climb to warm up on. I liked the route just to the right of this one a lot more, it was more vertical and took a bit more technique. Aug 12, 2007