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Routes in Loch Vale Gorge

Brown Smear? T WI5- R
Crystal Meth T WI4-5
Free Strike Zone T WI5 M7+
Hydrogen Bondage M6-7 R
Icy Chim T M5-6 R
L of Lochluster T WI4 M4
Lochluster T WI3
M5? hand crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a WI4+ M5 R
Mixed Feelings T WI4 M5-
Mixed Left of Mo Flo (aka "Big Girl Pants") T WI4- M5 R
Mo' Flo' Than Go T WI3
Pointlessness T M7
R of Lochluster TR WI4-
Replicant (unnamed) TR M6
Rock & Ice (aka Lumberjack) T WI5+ M6+ R
Rock, Wood, Ice T WI5- R
Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, 110 ft
FA: Dave Sheldon, 1996?
Page Views: 2,491 total, 16/month
Shared By: John Choboian on Dec 3, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This fantastic climb will test your sport, trad and ice climbing techniques. The route is just right of Mixed Feelings. Begin by hooking on overhanging rock past 3 bolts to a good fixed pin. The climbing eases up somewhat past the pin and continues up to the crack system. Traverse the crack system left on good hand holds but tricky foot holds to the free hanging ice pillar. Climb the pillar to the slung tree.

Protection

3 bolts, 1 fixed pin, 4-5 medium cams and 3-4 ice screws. 3-4 two foot runners are highly recommended to reduce rope drag. Anchor on the tree with slings at the top of the route

Toprope Protection

The route is overhanging and the hanging ice could be broken off. Not recommended for top roping.
jay dee  
I think the FA should be: Dave Sheldon 1996. Oct 29, 2008
Mike Shelton  
 
This route is still "in" with full value making the transition from the rock to the ice. The ice is detached from the lower bulge so it's a thin, free hanging dagger. Be prepared to move up a bit before the ice is thick enough to get a shorty. I've struggled with gear selection on this route and would offer two suggestions: use a double length runner on the piece you'd put at the "top" of the corner and shoulder length runners on anything put along the rising crack or at the corner before moving up. I brought a 0.5, 0.75, and 1 Camalot. Try not to get sucked into putting your last piece to far to the left before moving up the ice, it will cause horrible rope drag when the pump factor is huge. Great route with a hands free rest before the transition to ice. Mar 21, 2005
Could someone give me some beta for Strike Free Zone? (WI5 M7+). It's on the way to the Loch. I've scoped it out once and it looks totally bad. I was surprised that no one has posted this route and others, Bladerunner, etc. If you don't know where it is, but have done it, it is just to the right of Mixed Feelings (WI5 M5). Jan 27, 2003
Does anyone have any info on Strike Free Zone? (WI5 M7+). Jan 27, 2003