Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, 45 ft (14 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,199 total · 8/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Nov 16, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

Lo and behold, this line has been scratched up before now. Eric spied this improbable line, and it matches the topo in B. Gillett's guide as the "mixed direct start in hand crack (M5?)." We just thought it looked improbable as a mixed line as it seemed to be a lieback crack at a guessed 5.9+ with sticky rubber.

Find this little mixed problem on the right side of the Loch Vale Gorge main cliff. It lies just right of a moderate thin ramp finishing left of a prow of rock. You go up and right from the point where the trail intersects this wall just past the thin brown smear.

This problem turns out to be a challenge. Lieback, drytooling or using your hands. Then try to get back into the crack, but find that your crampons don't foot jam so well. The crux lies about 3/4 the way up the crack. Rest on a snow ledge. Fire up thin ice with some mixed moves to the top. I recommend avoiding this little arete on the left near the top as it could lead to disaster if you slip. Two new bolts are on the wall above the loose ledge. Perhaps 60-70 feet in all.

There are 2 more mixed starts to this same general line approximately 20 and 25 feet to the right. Perhaps M5- (left) and M4+ (right). Both are previously scratched up.

Protection Suggest change

The slightly flaring crack can take bigger cams, but the terrain above may be challenging for pro. You can sometimes put in stubbies on ice on the right above the crack. Then above that, hmmm.

Toprope Protection Suggest change

Best to TR. 2 bolts lie directly above this route though these can be awkward to reach. You can lead the WI3R smear to the L to access this spot. Beware below as yolu can fire off rocks as you set this up. We did.