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Routes in Loch Vale Gorge

Brown Smear? T WI5- R
Crystal Meth T WI4-5
Free Strike Zone T WI5 M7+
Hydrogen Bondage M6-7 R
Icy Chim T M5-6 R
L of Lochluster T WI4 M4
Lochluster T WI3
M5? hand crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a WI4+ M5 R
Mixed Feelings T WI4 M5-
Mixed Left of Mo Flo (aka "Big Girl Pants") T WI4- M5 R
Mo' Flo' Than Go T WI3
Pointlessness T M7
R of Lochluster TR WI4-
Replicant (unnamed) TR M6
Rock & Ice (aka Lumberjack) T WI5+ M6+ R
Rock, Wood, Ice T WI5- R
Type: Trad, Ice, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,450 total, 18/month
Shared By: Ryan Farris on Jan 25, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is the first, short, full, ice climb just right of Mixed Feelings and Blade Runner. It can be a fun short pitch with a few variations one being a rock start on the lefthand side.

Protection

Screws.

Toprope Protection

Tree at top of route. Can reach it through gully left of climb.
cride
  WI2-3
cride  
  WI2-3
For GPS heads, Mo' Flo' Than Go coordinate (02-JAN-11 12:03:04PM) N40 17.611 W105 38.999 (10119 ft). Jan 2, 2011
percious
Bear Creek, CO
 
percious   Bear Creek, CO
 
I lead the right side, all the way up to the dead tree for a nice 35m route. If you climb this one, bring a 70m rope if you want to run it all the way to the top. This made for a nice 3- 2+ climb. Dec 1, 2008
Theo Barker
Loveland, CO
Theo Barker   Loveland, CO
Took a look at the Loch Ice area on 4/19. The snow had all but buried the ice around to the right of Mixed Emotions. Did not look closely at Mixed Emotions tho'. Ended up TR climbing a pillar (straw) on the ESE corner of the Loch. Parking Lot wall was barely a thin coating on the rocks. Apr 25, 2003
Made my first visit to Loch Vale about two weeks ago (1/26/02) and was not impressed with the conditions. MFTG was about the only route that was really in unless you prefer your mix to be predominantly rock. It was pretty fat, completely protectable for the majority of possible lines but pretty thin to the top left near the tree with TR anchors. The curtain to the left is in fully enough for a fun mixed start. Feb 5, 2002