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Routes in Loch Vale Gorge

Brown Smear? T WI5- R
Crystal Meth T WI4+
Free Strike Zone T WI5 M7+
Hydrogen Bondage M6-7 R
Icy Chim T M5-6 R
L of Lochluster T WI4 M4
Lochluster T WI3
M5? hand crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a WI4+ M5 R
Mixed Feelings T WI4 M5
Mixed Left of Mo Flo (aka "Big Girl Pants") T WI4- M5 R
Mo' Flo' Than Go T WI3
Pointlessness T M7
R of Lochluster TR WI4-
Replicant (unnamed) TR M6
Rock & Ice (aka Lumberjack) T WI5+ M6+ R
Rock, Wood, Ice T WI5- R
Type: TR, Ice, 75 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,498 total, 12/month
Shared By: Eran Shileikis on Nov 20, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a great moderate route that regularly forms up at Loch Vale Gorge. There is a picture of this route and the right side of Loch Vale Gorge on the main Loch Vale Gorge page. If you're not confident enough to lead this, you could lead Lochluster and then toprope this line from the 2-bolt anchor.

Location

This is the short sheet of vertical ice immediately right of Lochluster and the M5 Handcrack, but left of Rock & Ice.

Protection

~4 screws.

Photos

butlerbt
Boulder, CO
 
butlerbt   Boulder, CO
 
This route is in quite different conditions then the pics on this page - it's very fat. You can head out left as implied by this route description, or stick to the right where the curtains (in the pics) have formed a nice, steep pillar. It's getting a little hacked out now though. Dec 30, 2013