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Routes in Loch Vale Gorge

Brown Smear? T WI5- R
Crystal Meth T WI4+
Free Strike Zone T WI5 M7+
Hydrogen Bondage M6-7 R
Icy Chim T M5-6 R
L of Lochluster T WI4 M4
Lochluster T WI3
M5? hand crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a WI4+ M5 R
Mixed Feelings T WI4 M5
Mixed Left of Mo Flo (aka "Big Girl Pants") T WI4- M5 R
Mo' Flo' Than Go T WI3
Pointlessness T M7
R of Lochluster TR WI4-
Replicant (unnamed) TR M6
Rock & Ice (aka Lumberjack) T WI5+ M6+ R
Rock, Wood, Ice T WI5- R
Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, 110 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,815 total, 12/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Dec 20, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Fun, neat, rampy, route in fat years. More challenging in lean years. Loch Vale Gorge. Nearly where the trail comes in from the main trail. Pins are in situ near the start. Can be frozen moss to exit. 120 feet. Rap off trees. When in just right can be the most fun moderate route in the area. (Long walkoff to the left past Mixed Feelings).

[Eds. this was previously misnamed in the database]

There is a direct start to the right M6? A yellow C3 Camalot helps protect the start.


Screws, pins in situ, possibly rock gear in really lean conditions. There have been at least 2 different top anchor points used.

Toprope Protection

2 ropes off trees above.


Eran Shileikis
Dysfunctional, CO
Eran Shileikis   Dysfunctional, CO
A cordelette and/or long slings are great for slinging around the ice pillars on this route. There is only one rap ring on the slings up there though --- it might be good to bring a back-up biner/ring. Other than that, it looks like you could actually keep climbing another short vertical section up and left of the tree and then rap off of the Crystal Meth (aka Lochness Monster?) anchor up higher. Nov 20, 2007
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
It's in again. However, it is thinner than this picture this year. 1st time it has looked reasonable since 1996 to me. Currently, however, the ice may be too thin for much ice pro. Rock is fairly compact. Nov 19, 2002