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Routes in Loch Vale Gorge

Brown Smear? T WI5- R
Crystal Meth T WI4+
Free Strike Zone T WI5 M7+
Hydrogen Bondage M6-7 R
Icy Chim T M4 R
L of Lochluster T WI4 M4
Lochluster T WI3
M5? hand crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a WI4+ M5 R
Mixed Feelings T WI4 M5
Mixed Left of Mo Flo (aka "Big Girl Pants") T WI4- M5 R
Mo' Flo' Than Go T WI3
Pointlessness T M7
R of Lochluster TR WI4-
Replicant (unnamed) TR M6
Rock & Ice (aka Lumberjack) T WI5+ M6+ R
Rock, Wood, Ice T WI5- R
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Type: Trad, Mixed, 55 ft
FA: Ryan Vachon and Eric Kenney
Page Views: 265 total · 6/month
Shared By: RWV on Apr 12, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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From time to time, the series of inside corners that define this line has plastered snow; howeve,r the route is an adventure in finding delicate pick placements in shallow cracks, welded joints, and some turf.

Begin the route in the powder 20 feet to the left of a small conifer. The first 15 feet consist of techie climbing moves into the first corner (right-facing). The first ascent found a shallow placement for a yellow X4. Move up a short distance, and cut hard right under the prominent overhang. One powerful move over the lip has you gain the inside of a large, left-facing corner with abundant mid-sized gear placements. The series of moves that take you over the next 3-foot overhang are delicate, and finding the right sequence of pics placements takes patience (and a wee bit of belief). Once within the next corner (right-facing), the difficulty eases into the conifers.

We found the name 'Pointlessness' fun - a play on words connected to the nearby climb ‘Mixed Feelings’, the shallow pick placements, and the loss of the first ascentionist's crampon halfway up the route.

The photo illustrating the route was copied from a submission showing the route L of Lochluster. This was not taken during a day that Pointlessness was climbed.


This route can be found on the rock buttress 50 feet to the right of Crystal Meth and L of Lochluster. Rap off of the trees at the top.


Gear placements are quite positive; however, the cruxes are a healthy body length (or more) above protection.

Bring a single rack from red X4 to #1 C4.



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