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Routes in Loch Vale Gorge
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Brown Smear? T WI5- R |
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Crystal Meth Left T,TR WI3 M3 PG13 |
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Free Strike Zone T WI5 M7+ |
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Hydrogen Bondage M6-7 R |
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Icy Chim T M5-6 R |
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L of Lochluster T WI4 M4 |
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Loch Ness Monster (AKA Crystal Meth) T WI4+ |
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Lochluster T WI3 |
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M5? hand crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a WI4+ M5 R |
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Mixed Emotions T,TR WI5- M5 |
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Mixed Left of Mo Flo (aka "Big Girl Pants") T WI4- M5 R |
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Mo' Flo' Than Go T WI3 |
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Pointlessness T M7 |
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R of Lochluster TR WI4- |
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Replicant (unnamed) TR M6 |
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Rock & Ice (aka Lumberjack) T WI5+ M6+ R |
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Rock, Wood, Ice T WI5- R |
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| Type: | Trad, Mixed, Ice |
| FA: | unknown visionary |
| Page Views: | 2,038 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Leo Paik on Dec 19, 2005 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This is a fun TR line on the right side of the Loch Vale Gorge area. In some ways, it is reminiscent of Mixed Feelings.... When the choice lines are taken & you are itching for a pump, hang a TR & enjoy!
This line has probably been done before based upon the scratches & ease of access; however, no notation of it exists in the old J. Roberts' guide, C. Burns' guide, or either Gillett's guides. So, if you named or rated it previously, our apologies & we can change the info.
You can find this line just left of Rock, Wood, Ice & Icy Chim and starts below the overhang sporting a hanging icicle. Hike the trail in from Glacier Gorge & go right when you get to the cliff. Locate a thin corner with big flakes traversing right to the ice above the log start to Rock, Wood, Ice.
Get started up a thin corner off a block with a good right tool placement with a left tool stack on top. Reach up for the sloping ledge (crux), match, go for a higher edge, fire a leg up, get stable, move up to a great bucket, then find excellent holds traversing right towards the ice. Get set high & move right onto the thin ice. Try to get depumped on the now vertical ice and carefully go to the top. 2 trees with slings & biners may be rappelled or traverse left to the 2 bolt anchor.
This line has probably been done before based upon the scratches & ease of access; however, no notation of it exists in the old J. Roberts' guide, C. Burns' guide, or either Gillett's guides. So, if you named or rated it previously, our apologies & we can change the info.
You can find this line just left of Rock, Wood, Ice & Icy Chim and starts below the overhang sporting a hanging icicle. Hike the trail in from Glacier Gorge & go right when you get to the cliff. Locate a thin corner with big flakes traversing right to the ice above the log start to Rock, Wood, Ice.
Get started up a thin corner off a block with a good right tool placement with a left tool stack on top. Reach up for the sloping ledge (crux), match, go for a higher edge, fire a leg up, get stable, move up to a great bucket, then find excellent holds traversing right towards the ice. Get set high & move right onto the thin ice. Try to get depumped on the now vertical ice and carefully go to the top. 2 trees with slings & biners may be rappelled or traverse left to the 2 bolt anchor.
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