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Routes in Loch Vale Gorge

Brown Smear? T WI5- R
Crystal Meth T WI4+
Free Strike Zone T WI5 M7+
Hydrogen Bondage M6-7 R
Icy Chim T M5-6 R
L of Lochluster T WI4 M4
Lochluster T WI3
M5? hand crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a WI4+ M5 R
Mixed Feelings T WI4 M5
Mixed Left of Mo Flo (aka "Big Girl Pants") T WI4- M5 R
Mo' Flo' Than Go T WI3
Pointlessness T M7
R of Lochluster TR WI4-
Replicant (unnamed) TR M6
Rock & Ice (aka Lumberjack) T WI5+ M6+ R
Rock, Wood, Ice T WI5- R
Type: Mixed, 100 ft
FA: Ethan Gutmann and Ryan Vachon (2003)
Page Views: 390 total · 9/month
Shared By: RWV on Apr 22, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

I am sorry to say that I only reported this ascent to our lost friend, Jack R, back in 2002, and forgot to follow up since. I hope that others can confirm or add to what I share here.

The route that we ascended begins with the traverse to Mixed Emotions, but before you reach the ME business, cut straight up though a very obvious crack. The gear will happen in that lip, and then you can rest up on a ledge of rock or ice, depending on the conditions.

The route then continues up the face (occasional ice smears, depending upon the year) 20-30 feet to the left of Mixed Emotions. This part of the route is really precarious, and the tiny cams are hard to set. The line finishes at the large tree at the lip.

Location

This is just to the left of Mixed Emotions.

Protection

Tiny cams in challenging placements on the face.

Photos

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