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Routes in Loch Vale Gorge
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Brown Smear? T WI5- R |
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Crystal Meth Left T,TR WI3 M3 PG13 |
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Free Strike Zone T WI5 M7+ |
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Hydrogen Bondage M6-7 R |
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Icy Chim T M5-6 R |
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L of Lochluster T WI4 M4 |
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Loch Ness Monster (AKA Crystal Meth) T WI4+ |
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Lochluster T WI3 |
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M5? hand crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a WI4+ M5 R |
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Mixed Emotions T,TR WI5- M5 |
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Mixed Left of Mo Flo (aka "Big Girl Pants") T WI4- M5 R |
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Mo' Flo' Than Go T WI3 |
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Pointlessness T M7 |
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R of Lochluster TR WI4- |
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Replicant (unnamed) TR M6 |
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Rock & Ice (aka Lumberjack) T WI5+ M6+ R |
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Rock, Wood, Ice T WI5- R |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, TR, Mixed, Ice, 65 ft (20 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,283 total · 20/month |
| Shared By: | Bogdan Petre on Dec 15, 2018 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Description
This is the left side of the Loch Ness Monster (AKA Crystal Meth) (aka Lochness Monster) flow. Normally this entire flow is just referred to as Loch Ness Monster (AKA Crystal Meth), but the left and right hand sides have very different character. The right side can form as a steep WI4+ pillar with thick ice. The left side is off to the side of the main drainage, and as a result the ice seems to be thinner, and when we did it the ice petered out before the top, leaving mixed slab and moss for the top out, but it's not as steep as the main drainage fed part of the curtain either. It is a worthy climb in its own right.
If the climb is in, it seems that the base will form as a thin, possibly free hanging curtain. Take the curtains up to a low angle slab, followed by another short ice step to mixed terrain. A large boulder above can be passed on the left via a gully to top out.
If the climb is in, it seems that the base will form as a thin, possibly free hanging curtain. Take the curtains up to a low angle slab, followed by another short ice step to mixed terrain. A large boulder above can be passed on the left via a gully to top out.
Location
This is left of the Loch Ness Monster (AKA Crystal Meth) pillar on the same flow to the far left side. The flow is likely the first one you see upon reaching the base of the crag from the climber's approach trail.
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