Type: Trad, TR, Mixed, Ice, 65 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 155 total · 25/month
Shared By: Bogdan P on Dec 15, 2018
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is the left side of the Crystal Meth (aka Lochness Monster) flow. Normally this entire flow is just referred to as Crystal Meth, but the left and right hand sides have very different character. The right side can form as a steep WI4+ pillar with thick ice. The left side is off to the side of the main drainage, and as a result the ice seems to be thinner, and when we did it the ice petered out before the top, leaving mixed slab and moss for the top out, but it's not as steep as the main drainage fed part of the curtain either. It is a worthy climb in its own right.

If the climb is in, it seems that the base will form as a thin, possibly free hanging curtain. Take the curtains up to a low angle slab, followed by another short ice step to mixed terrain. A large boulder above can be passed on the left via a gully to top out.

Location

This is left of the Crystal Meth pillar on the same flow to the far left side. The flow is likely the first one you see upon reaching the base of the crag from the climber's approach trail.

Protection

Ice screws. Small rock pro and specters could be useful.

Photos

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