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Routes in Loch Vale Gorge
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Brown Smear? T WI5- R |
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Crystal Meth Left T,TR WI3 M3 PG13 |
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Free Strike Zone T WI5 M7+ |
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Hydrogen Bondage M6-7 R |
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Icy Chim T M4 R |
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L of Lochluster T WI4 M4 |
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Loch Ness Monster (AKA Crystal Meth) T WI4+ |
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Lochluster T WI3 |
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M5? hand crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a WI4+ M5 R |
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Mixed Emotions (submitted as Mixed Feelings) T WI5- M5 |
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Mixed Left of Mo Flo (aka "Big Girl Pants") T WI4- M5 R |
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Mo' Flo' Than Go T WI3 |
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Pointlessness T M7 |
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R of Lochluster TR WI4- |
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Replicant (unnamed) TR M6 |
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Rock & Ice (aka Lumberjack) T WI5+ M6+ R |
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Rock, Wood, Ice T WI5- R |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, Ice, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,513 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Leo Paik on Nov 16, 2002 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This is that inviting brown smear just a bit right of where the trail intersects with the main Loch Vale Gorge cliff.
It is best as a TR though some have solo'ed it like Ed and probably some have led it. There is a tree above it with slings that suggest it's popular. It certainly does draw one's eye.
Start up thin ice where the snow abuts the rock/ice. Move up delicately and tap thicker bits of ice up less than vertical terrain. You do wonder why you actually stick to the stuff. As you approach the brown ice above, you can start to swing your tools. Best/thickest ice is on the right in a shallow corner as it steepens for a bit. Beware on the top out of this bit as you can find nothing solid for a move or two. Continue up a bit of brown ice above to the tree. It is fun.
Oh yeah, Ed said he wouldn't solo it again.
It is best as a TR though some have solo'ed it like Ed and probably some have led it. There is a tree above it with slings that suggest it's popular. It certainly does draw one's eye.
Start up thin ice where the snow abuts the rock/ice. Move up delicately and tap thicker bits of ice up less than vertical terrain. You do wonder why you actually stick to the stuff. As you approach the brown ice above, you can start to swing your tools. Best/thickest ice is on the right in a shallow corner as it steepens for a bit. Beware on the top out of this bit as you can find nothing solid for a move or two. Continue up a bit of brown ice above to the tree. It is fun.
Oh yeah, Ed said he wouldn't solo it again.
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