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Routes in Loch Vale Gorge

Brown Smear? T WI5- R
Crystal Meth T WI4-5
Free Strike Zone T WI5 M7+
Hydrogen Bondage M6-7 R
Icy Chim T M5-6 R
L of Lochluster T WI4 M4
Lochluster T WI3
M5? hand crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a WI4+ M5 R
Mixed Feelings T WI4 M5-
Mixed Left of Mo Flo (aka "Big Girl Pants") T WI4- M5 R
Mo' Flo' Than Go T WI3
Pointlessness T M7
R of Lochluster TR WI4-
Replicant (unnamed) TR M6
Rock & Ice (aka Lumberjack) T WI5+ M6+ R
Rock, Wood, Ice T WI5- R
Type: Trad, Ice, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 821 total, 4/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Nov 16, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is that inviting brown smear just a bit right of where the trail intersects with the main Loch Vale Gorge cliff.

It is best as a TR though some have solo'ed it like Ed and probably some have led it. There is a tree above it with slings that suggest it's popular. It certainly does draw one's eye.

Start up thin ice where the snow abuts the rock/ice. Move up delicately and tap thicker bits of ice up less than vertical terrain. You do wonder why you actually stick to the stuff. As you approach the brown ice above, you can start to swing your tools. Best/thickest ice is on the right in a shallow corner as it steepens for a bit. Beware on the top out of this bit as you can find nothing solid for a move or two. Continue up a bit of brown ice above to the tree. It is fun.

Oh yeah, Ed said he wouldn't solo it again.

Protection

Kahunas and stubbies.

Toprope Protection

Slings from a tree.

Photos

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