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Routes in Notchtop & vicinity

Grace Falls T WI4
Hot Doggie T WI5
New Beginnings T WI5- M6
North Face (which actually faces NE) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WI3
Type: Trad, Ice, Alpine, 70 ft
FA: Alex Lowe, Erick Winkleman, Jeff Lowe
Page Views: 2,820 total, 20/month
Shared By: David A. Turner on Feb 28, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Hot Doggie is an ephemeral route. It can be reached by an optional approach pitch, which is usually a thin, steep slab to a ledge.

When Hot Doggie was first climbed, it was not touching down. Alex Lowe climbed the back wall, and then hucked onto the hanging ice. No bolts were used.

When my partner and I climbed Hot Doggie some years ago, it had a pillar touching down. The pillar ice was very strange, styrofoam like and unusually wind sculpted from the hurricane winds that blow through here. This feels overhanging, until the curtain is reached.

Location

This is beneath the N. Face of Notch Top. Get off by a rappel. This had a fixed anchor (old school) some years back.

Protection

Ice screws. Presumably, when the pillar touches down, rock gear can be place.
Colin Simon
Boulder, CO
 
Colin Simon   Boulder, CO
 
There are no more pitons in the crack in the back as of Nov. 14, 2015.

Roy's knifeblade may still exist left of the pillar, but we found it better to approach from the right. Perhaps it formed differently. Nov 18, 2015
alpinglow
city, state
alpinglow   city, state
Cordes and I climbed this winter '03? Best single pitch in the park? Aug 17, 2007
Roy Leggett
WI5-6
Roy Leggett  
WI5-6
Steve Su and I climbed this on November 26, 2005. We fixed a Knifeblade for a belay 20 feet to the left of the start of the pillar. Another blade or some RPs would complement the anchor and is recommended given the fallout terrain and the tenuous nature of the route and its protection (especially at the start).
We also fixed an angle approx. 10 feet up in the crack at the back of the wall.
The "approach" pitch is a little exposed and you may want to consider roping up.
Also, given that this usually forms as a free hanging pillar of sorts, you should consider just using rock gear at the start, then gunning for the supported ice near the top before placing any screws. May 3, 2006