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Routes in Aiguille du Midi

Voie Rébuffat-Baquet T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Elevation: 12,605 ft
GPS: 45.879, 6.888 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: kenr on Jul 10, 2017
Admins: Euan Cameron, Luc-514
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Description

Though mainly thought of as a quick high access point for climbers and skiers, and as an amazing view spot with exhibits for tourists, it also has great climbing of its own, both granite rock and ice+snow+mixed.

Some of its great routes (especially ice+snow) are approached from the Plan de l'Aiguille lift, like most routes in the Aiguilles de Chamonix, so sometimes the Midi is thought of as part of that area.

Most rock routes (and ski descents) are approached from the top from the Aiguille du Midi top station, and the others are at least descended from Midi top station.

Popular climbing routes include:
  • Midi-Plan Traverse.

Furthermore, the construction of the Refuge des Cosmiques has allowed people to stay for multiple days at high altitude without having to carry extensive gear.

The accessibility of this region has made it much more popular than similarly high altitude regions in the alps. For some this is a boon as the routes are likely to be better equipped than other routes high in the alps. Also, there are likely to be many parties attempting the same routes and sometimes it is necessary to start unreasonably early if you want to be the first one on a climb.

The last two paragraphs are from a duplicate page from Seleucus

Getting There

Ride the mechanical lift up from south side of town of Chamonix:
base station: (GPS latitude longitude approx N45.9185 E6.8696) . (elevation 3380 ft)
main Parking: (N45.9160 E6.8700)

That lift reaches the Plan de l'Aiguille station (N45.9016 E6.8849) . (elevation 7600 ft). There is a sleeping hut / refuge nearby. Many climbs of the Aiguilles de Chamonix and some of the Aiguille du Midi are approached from this lift station.

Here exit that lift and walk through the building to the boarding platform for the second lift which goes up to the Aiguille du Midi top station (N45.8793 E6.8870). which is cut into the rock of the northwest side of the peak.

Exit from that lift and walk through a dark tunnel to reach the exit to get outside to access the climbs (or ski routes) -- by first going down a narrow snow/ice ridge (crampons and/or ice axe often required) - (often protected by fixed ropes during spring ski season).

Sleeping in the Midi top station structures is not permitted.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Aiguille du Midi

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