Elevation: 2,415 ft
GPS: 43.485, 11.997 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 316,446 total · 2,232/month
Shared By: e Dixon on May 25, 2007 with updates from Tenaya Hurst
Admins: Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath

Description

In Italy, there are all types of climbing to be found. The country is full of possible destinations. An abundance of everything from sport climbing to long, alpine routes. In addition to a variety of climbing styles, are the various types of stone. Much of the climbing is on different types of limestone, however, beautiful granite can be found as well. Check it out, you won't be disappointed!

Getting There

There are a variety of major cities that can be flown into. Just pick the one closest to your selected climbing destination. At times is is better to fly into a nearby country (Austria, Germany) for quicker access to your destination. It also makes sense to check with your car insurance and credit card company regarding coverage of rental cars. Some will not cover cars rented in Italy, but will cover cars rented in other countries and driven in Italy.

691 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Italy

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
 4
● Ferrata Brigata Tridentina
TR, Alpine
Dolomites > … > Passo Gardena a… > Via Ferrata
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 11
● South-west Arete (Delagokante)
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
Dolomites > … > Vajolet Towers > Torre Delago
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 8
● "Spigolo Jori," SE Arete
Trad 15 pitches
Dolomites > Pomagagnon & Cr… > Punta Fiames
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 16
● South Face Buttress 1, a.k.a. Ā“…
Trad, Alpine 14 pitches
Dolomites > Tofana Group > Tofana di Rozes
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 26
● South Face (Via Miriam)
Trad 5 pitches
Dolomites > Cinque Torri Group > Torre Grand S Summit
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 16
● Cima Piccola Ā– South Arete Yell…
Trad, Alpine 11 pitches
Dolomites > Tre Cime di Lav… > Cima Piccola
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 12
● Schubert (Friendship Route)
Trad 7 pitches
Dolomites > … > Passo Sella Area > Piz Ciavazes
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 9
● Messner
Trad, Alpine 11 pitches
Dolomites > … > Passo Sella Area > Second Sella Tower
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
● Classica 6b
Trad
Cadarese > Sector B
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
 6
● Luna Nascente
Trad 8 pitches
Val Masino > Val di Mello > Scoglio delle Metamor…
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 14
● North Face - Comici
Trad, Alpine 15 pitches
Dolomites > Tre Cime di Lav… > Cime Grande
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
 3
● Oceano Irrazionale
Trad 13 pitches
Val Masino > Val di Mello > Precipizio degli Aste…
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
 4
● Cima Ovest-North Face - Cassin
Trad, Alpine
Dolomites > Tre Cime di Lav… > Cima Ovest
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 7
● South Face, Buttress 2, Pilastro…
Trad, Alpine 19 pitches
Dolomites > Tofana Group > Tofana di Rozes
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 3
● Roberta83
Sport 9 pitches
Dolomites > … > Passo Sella Area > Piz Ciavazes
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Ferrata Brigata Tridentina Dolomites > … > Passo Gardena a… > Via Ferrata
 4
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b TR, Alpine
● South-west Arete (Delagokante) Dolomites > … > Vajolet Towers > Torre Delago
 11
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
● "Spigolo Jori," SE Arete Dolomites > Pomagagnon & Cr… > Punta Fiames
 8
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 15 pitches
● South Face Buttress 1, a.k… Dolomites > Tofana Group > Tofana di Rozes
 16
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad, Alpine 14 pitches
● South Face (Via Miriam) Dolomites > Cinque Torri Group > Torre Grand S Summit
 26
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 5 pitches
● Cima Piccola Ā– South Arete… Dolomites > Tre Cime di Lav… > Cima Piccola
 16
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, Alpine 11 pitches
● Schubert (Friendship Route) Dolomites > … > Passo Sella Area > Piz Ciavazes
 12
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 7 pitches
● Messner Dolomites > … > Passo Sella Area > Second Sella Tower
 9
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Alpine 11 pitches
● Classica 6b Cadarese > Sector B
 3
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
● Luna Nascente Val Masino > Val di Mello > Scoglio delle Metamor…
 6
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Trad 8 pitches
● North Face - Comici Dolomites > Tre Cime di Lav… > Cime Grande
 14
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, Alpine 15 pitches
● Oceano Irrazionale Val Masino > Val di Mello > Precipizio degli Aste…
 3
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 Trad 13 pitches
● Cima Ovest-North Face - Cassin Dolomites > Tre Cime di Lav… > Cima Ovest
 4
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 Trad, Alpine
● South Face, Buttress 2, Pil… Dolomites > Tofana Group > Tofana di Rozes
 7
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad, Alpine 19 pitches
● Roberta83 Dolomites > … > Passo Sella Area > Piz Ciavazes
 3
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport 9 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Italy »

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My first trip with unsupervised anchor threading. Slab climbing near Cala Gorone, Sarinia, Italy
My first trip with unsupervised anchor threadin…
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Climbing toprope in the vicinity of Cala Gorone, Sardinia, Italy.
Climbing toprope in the vicinity of Cala Gorone…
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Louisa Iovane on Doping (8a), Val di Nicolo.<br> <br> Photo by Heinz Mariacher.
Louisa Iovane on Doping (8a), Val di Nicolo.…
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Ahh...
Ahh...
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Climbing above the vineyards in Finale, photo: Bob Horan Collection
Climbing above the vineyards in Finale, photo:…
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Climbing in Finale Liguere, photo: Bob Horan Collection
Climbing in Finale Liguere, photo: Bob Horan Co…
 0

4 Comments

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Forestvonsinkafinger
Iowa
Forestvonsinkafinger   Iowa
As many world class routes there are in this country, I am surprised at the lack of action on MP.com for Italy. I suggest we all take a group outing there. Oct 22, 2009
Matt Marino
Georgetown, MA
Matt Marino   Georgetown, MA
Does anyone have any information on Riva Ridge in Lizzano Italy? It was the sight of the 10th Mountain Division's first combat in WWII and being a former 10th Mountain Soldier I'm trying to make a pilgrimage. May 12, 2010
SYBold
SYBold  
For extensive topos on the various crags of Italy (and other regions)see the Italian version of MountainProject:


Falesia.it Nov 1, 2012
Tenaya Hurst
San Jose, CA
Tenaya Hurst   San Jose, CA
Hello! I'm the first post in awhile. Folks, I moved to Italy to be a full time rock climber and I cannot meet ANYONE. I am a climber of 30 years, in Italy no one will give me the time of day and I guess they assume I am a rookie. If you are reading this and it is still 2017, I am available to climb in Italy. I live in Como on Lake Como.

Information for others looking in the area. Gyms are crap, you have to bring your own partner, all your gear, they don't TR here. Most Italians do not use the internet, so Yelp, Meetup, Craigslist, etc. are all no-gos to find partners. Trail heads and routes and where to go climb, it is all uncertain and you never know if you are parked a million kilometers away or what gear you will need, etc. You need to find experts. I have not found any yet - at all - let alone a few that will take me under their Italian wing.

Como is a great base to live in because you're close to Switzerland, many caves, and many routes in Northern Italy. It's just finding the people to climb with - always the struggle. May 17, 2017