Dolomites Rock Climbing

The Dolomites have to be one of the most beautiful mountain ranges in the world. There are countless long routes at all levels of difficulty. The rock is limestone, the quality of which can vary dramatically! Many of the climbs have short approaches, and the longer ones can often be accessed via lifts. Definitely a classic and historical climbing destination. Most of the routes are "old school", so feel out the ratings.

The routes in the Dolomites comprise three different types of climbing:

Traditional climbs: Most of the major mountains have traditional lines up them requiring a selection of climbing gear consisting of wires, cams, and "threads" which consist of kevlar cord that can be slipped through holes or around hourglass features and tied off. A selection of quick draws supplemented with multiple long slings is also appropriate to reduce rope drag on the circuitous route lines. Over time the traditional lines that get relatively few ascents have deteriorated significantly in terms of the fixed protection (old pitons). If you choose to climb a not highly traveled route, it is probably recommended that you bring a piton hammer with a selection of pins as this is the only gear that is possible for considerable distances on many lines in the Dolomites.

Sport climbs: There are now also hundreds of sport climbing areas with single to several pitch routes and there are many multi-pitch sport climbs up major faces. These multipitch sport climbs tend to be significantly harder than the classic traditional lines and can feel a bit "run-out" compared to the single pitch lines close to the ground.

Via Ferrata: The term Via Ferrata translates to Iron road or path of Iron in English. These are paths up sections of mountains in the Alps, and are especially popular in the Italian Dolomites. These routes tend to be well marked paths through a section of mountains and where the difficulty increases or the exposure is significant they consist of a steel cable fixed to the rock every 3-10 meters, with occasional metal rungs or even ladders and bridges to assist hikers up the mountain or ridge. Many of the early the Via Ferrata were established during the First World War to aid the movements of military personnel in their attempt to establish lines of defense in the mountains. Since then these older Ferrata have been upgraded with newer cable, post and rigging and many newer Ferrata have been created just for tourists. Climbing Ferrata is big business for the local communities in the Dolomites: On a warm sunny day in July or August there may be thousands of people on a single popular Ferrata leading to queues up the entire mountain. Often at the summit there is a bar with food, alcohol and occasionally a Tramway back to the base making for an enjoyable hike in the mountains and good R&R on the summit (welcome to Italy).

In general, these Via Ferrata routes are much less committing than any nearby rock climbs as the routes have a fixed cable all the way through all difficulties (that you can pull yourself up with if needed or if slippery), and they have relatively well traveled descents with no rappels. Gear requirements include a harness, a helmet (required due to the busy nature of the routes and the quality of rock in general in the mountains), some form of a rigging to clip to the cable (dual arms with two carabiners and a shock absorbing system), hiking shoes and a pair of gloves to protect your hands from blistering. There are commercial riggings available for about 80 Euros and they are very nice, however a climber who is very unlikely to fall on these routes can create their own rigging with an old rope for essentially nothing using gear they should already own (search the internet or check a guidebook for homemade designs). The downside to a homemade system is the greater chance of back injury in a fall due to poor shock absorbing features. Occasionally a short section of rope is useful on the very difficult rated Ferrata to belay up any partners who are not experienced climbers. Depending on the season and the route there may be a need for crampons or ice axes on the descent (or just climb down the route you ascended).

For experienced climbers these routes are very easy even when they are graded as very difficult - unless you choose to climb them without grabbing the cable - then they can be very stout 5th class or unclimbable in places. Never the less, they make a great day out if you just want to go for a hike in the mountains but get some exposure. They are also nice for an early morning rapid ascent during questionable weather days where you might not wish to commit to a big wall (stay off of them if lightening is forecast). These are also superb ways to get your kids out into the mountains climbing at a young age - no gear, no ropes - just moving fast over stone.

Climbing grades:

The classic routes in the Dolomites are graded using the UIAA system. The modern sport and mixed climbs use the French grading system. Here is a table to assist you with understanding these grades in the Yosemite system. Beware that there are a lot of "easy" grades on routes but all but the most popular of these routes often have very little opportunity for gear placements (or quality fixed gear), loose rock and little chance for escape so they make up for their grade in commitment.

UIAA--------------Yosemite-------------French

II.........................5.2........................1

III........................5.3........................2

IV........................5.4......................2-3

IV+......................5.5.......................3

V-........................5.6.......................4

V.........................5.7.......................5a

V+......................5.8.......................5b

VI-......................5.9.......................5b/c

VI......................5.10a....................5c-6a

VI+....................5.10b.....................6a

VII-....................5.10c.....................6a+

VII.....................5.10d.....................6b

VII+...................5.11a.....................6b+

VII+...................5.11b.....................6c

VIII-...................5.11c.....................6c+

VIII....................5.11d.....................7a

VIII....................5.12a.....................7a+

VIII+..................5.12b.....................7b

IX-.....................5.12c.....................7b+

IX......................5.12d.....................7c

IX......................5.13a.....................7c+

IX+....................5.13b.....................8a

X-......................5.13c.....................8a+

X.......................5.13d.....................8b