Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details


There are lots of cracks here on the Wingate sandstone. Lots of people now, too. Tread lightly.

Getting There

To get to the Creek from Moab, go south on US 191 toward Monticello and look for SH 211, which includes a Canyonlands sign, and go right (west). Watch for the Utah State Patrol on 191 and Mule Deer on 211. After the road winds and goes downhill, you will pass Newspaper Rock on your right. In a few miles you have pretty much entered Indian Creek Canyon.

Respect and Protect

Please Respect and Protect archaeological sites: Stay on trail, help prevent damage. Don’t move artifacts, let everyone enjoy the discovery. Stay out of ancient buildings and off walls, they are fragile! Report looting and vandalism: 1 800 722 3998

1,221 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Indian Creek Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Indian Creek

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Supercrack of the Desert
Trad 3 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Incredible Hand Crack
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jolly Rancher
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Lightning Bolt Cracks
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Big Guy
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Excuse Station
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Spaghetti Western
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
9 Lives
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
King Cat
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Way Rambo
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Slice and Dice
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Supercrack of the Desert Supercrack Buttress
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Incredible Hand Crack Supercrack Buttress
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Jolly Rancher Pistol Whipped
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Pente Reservoir Wall
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Lightning Bolt Cracks N Six Shooter Peak
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Big Guy Scarface
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Scarface Scarface
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Excuse Station Reservoir Wall
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Spaghetti Western Pistol Whipped
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Sinestra Original Meat Wall
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
9 Lives Cat Wall
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
King Cat Cat Wall
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Annunaki Optimator
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Way Rambo Way Rambo
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Slice and Dice Way Rambo
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad
More Classic Climbs in Indian Creek »

Weather Averages

Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season


Could anybody tell me if it is a good idea to climb in IC in June ?... Or is it too hot ?? Nov 11, 2002
There's an easy way to get away from the posers and brats at Indian Creek: MY GOODNESS, PEOPLE, GET THE HELL AWAY FROM SUPERCRACK BUTTRESS!! There's a million Supercrack's at the Creek. I've never understood why everyone flocks to that one cliff, when the Creek is unfathomably huge! Personally I get as far away from that buttress as I can. Mar 17, 2003
I have an actual question:

There's a route on Battle of the Bulge, between Crack Attack and the Big Baby (closer to Crack Attack) that's not in my guidebook. It's about 50-60' long it's a black left facing corner/open book (wider than 90 degrees) It starts thin fingers, then gets tighter and tighter until you have to stem and use some pods. I'm pretty certain it's in the 5.12-12+ range. Does anyone know what this is? Thanks Mar 25, 2003
I asked about camping areas at Indian Creek on the mailing list, and thought I'd add the reply posts, since the intro to Indian Creek description has poor descriptions of the various places. First reply was from Steve "Crusher" Bartlett:

  • ***************1. A month ago the road was rough, but easy enough in my 4x4 truck. There wereseveral passenger car / low clearance vehicles parked out there, so with some care and patience this works for most vehicles. Drove it in a 2WD vehicle last fall (Prius, very low clearance), and it seemd ok. You can expect to bottom out a little perhaps, but not badly enough to do any damage.[add-on by Friso: This is regarding the Bridger Jack's area. It is reached by turning left on the second dirt road that is past Dugout Ranch, I believe. If you are on the correct road, you should soon encounter a low level water crossing, followed by an odd intersection where a hard right will take you to Bridger Jack's camp area.]

2. The Super Bowl camping area is located on the left, just before thesignposted turn-off for Davis Canyon (access for the Six-shooters). This is about 11 miles from Newspaper Rock, on the left. I've not seen this area for a couple years. It had a portable toilet, and was easy to access back then. Should still be the same.

3. Other camping areas include:Newspaper Rock, which is often busy, but is nice and shady, and has pittoilets. The Hamburger Rock area is a mile or so past the Davis Canyon turn-off (maybe15 miles from Newspaper Rock) and is on the right. Look for a large wooded BLM sign, with directions. This is an easy 2WD mile or so off of the main road, and is usually frequented by hikers, and is usually ignored by climbers (kind of a long commute from the climbing). There are pit toilets here.There is also undeveloped camping within Cottonwood Canyon beyond the Dugout Ranch area to the southwest (near Pistol Whipped Wall). Also along Davis Canyon Road, but this road becomes very rough, very quickly.

4. There are two areas which are currently designated as No Camping: a. The inner canyon area between Newspaper Rock and the Dugout Ranch/Reservoir.This includes the side-canyons. b. The Lavender Canyon area. This is the pristine area beyond the BridgerJacks, extending along the west side of the Bridger Jack Mesa.**************** An add-on by H.R. Barnard

  • ***************I was at the super bowl about 3 weeks ago. It is very accessible to lowclearance vehicles. Another tip on finding it to add to Crusher's. Rightbefore the turn there is a short but very noticeable, slightly curving distinct downhill section of the road. The gate to the superbowl isimmediately after that. There was also a small nature conservancy/BLM IndianCreek brochure box located at the gate to help identify it. Don't be detered byall the RV-type vehicles you see initially. Stay to the left of where theypark and you'll find the climber camping.****************
May 8, 2003
I was just wondering about summer weather, is it too hot to climb, or is it possible to find relief in the shade on some of the walls? Also, a little bit more specific: what are the best months, ok months, and worse months to climb at indian creek. I appreciate the Help.

Maui Postma Jul 12, 2003
The best months at the Creek are fall and spring March through mid-May and mid-September through November. The unfortunate thing about the Creek for summer climbing is that most of the walls face South. However, there are a few excellent walls which get plenty of shade: Reservoir Wall and 4x4 Wall come to mind as the best. Jul 14, 2003
just wondering if anybody has info on a couple routes we did this weekend. the two routes we did were side by side, and they were between dusty trails to nowhere and coyote essence.

the left hand route went up the right side of a flake on great hands and then burrows into a sweet squeeze chimney. the squeeze is capped by a hand crack that quickly tapers to a lieback to get to the anchors. (5.9 until layback topout, maybe 10b, approx 80 feet).

the right hand route (about 15 feet to the right) was pretty low angle. it started with a finger lieback to get onto a small pedestal. then it was low angled ringlocks and tight hands for a ways. finally, there is kind of an angled slot/recess with tight hands (this part is steeper). (maybe 10b or so, approx 60 feet?)

thanks for the info. both routes were excellent. Oct 14, 2003
Grant b  
two questions, about Indian Creek, one which wall is Diedier's new climb on, from switzerland with love? i am going to the creek this weekend and just want to check out the route, next...what wall is the ringel on? thanks for the help! Sep 22, 2005
Madaleine Sorkin
Boulder, Colorado
Madaleine Sorkin   Boulder, Colorado
Question! Might anyone recall the names of the two newish routes just left of the Optimator (yes, on the Optimator Wall)? The farthest left is an easier 5.12 in a right-facing corner, I believe containing thw word 'red' in its short name, and the other begins with a bouldery start. Anyway, they are fun routes, if you haven't made it over there, and for whatever reason it's nagging me that I can't recall the names. Jan 28, 2006
whats the deal with climbing on the reservoir wall? shutdown or what?? Apr 6, 2006
Rob T  
Just talked to Heidi about Resevoir in May '06. She would prefer that people stay on the left side of the wall, basically out of view of the ranch. Sep 7, 2006
A note for 1st ascensionists from an ARI volunteer who has replaced stacks of anchors in the creek.

Some guidelines to consider for new anchors:

1. Use deep half inch bolts when possible (a power drill drills a better hole, and even though it is heavy on the hike, it can drop in a 4 1/2 X 1/2 inch hole in about 15 seconds).

2.Three eighths is your second choice.

3. Leave the baby angles at home. I have cleaned these antiquated things with embarrassingly little effort. They are difficult to place, anyway, even by experienced drillers (hence the ones sticking out an inch from the wall). Besides, they are more expensive than expansion bolts.

4. Use steel anchors. Webbing is visually gross and wears out quickly becoming unsafe. There are many cheap options at your local hardware store.

5. Camo the anchors. Every hardware store carries a brown primer that is exactly the color of windgate.

5. Make the link to the rope replaceable without having to replace the entire setup (ie: screwlinks or old biners).

A major complaint against climbers in indian creek and across the country is the visual impact of bolts and anchors, so this is an access issue and a safety issue.

Finally, those of you who carry a bolt kit for beefing up anchors, consider carrying enough gear to replace the entire thing with steel hardware and good bolts. This will avoid creating those confusing rats nest anchors that we always see out there. If one out of every one hundred parties replaced one anchor, the place would be cleaned up in no time.

Chris Kalous
Climbing Magazine ARI volunteer.

PS: If you put up routes with single bolt anchors, you're cheap and lazy. Nov 8, 2006
Todd Glew
Salt Lake City, UT
Todd Glew   Salt Lake City, UT
Hi, I got busted on the 211, the road going into Indian Creek Corridor. I was speeding and got searched. Dont speed and just say no to search. Be careful on these Utah backroads, spred the word. Apr 25, 2008
Larry Bruce
Whitefish, MT
Larry Bruce   Whitefish, MT
Last week I went up and climbed the wonderful Whales Back on Technicolor Wall and noticed a new route to the right of it with 3 shiny new bolts on a prow to the right of a flair. What really bothered me about it was the name of the route SILVER LINING scribed on the wall. I like plaques, they can be attractive and artistic but scribing on the wall itself is not only defacing the rock but is a ticket to having IC closed for climbing. All it takes is one pissed off Native American working with the BLM to shut it down, with good reason. Choss Boy Oct 27, 2008
From the Redds of Indian Creek 12/07/08...

...As you know, one of our dogs is missing from the Dugout Ranch (aka Indian Creek area). Please forward this email to anyone who may be able to help.

"Jack" is a female Kelpie/Boxer cross, with distinctive black and white markings and a couple brown spots on her cheek. (pictures attached) She is a very sweet, affectionate and friendly dog who went missing shortly before Thanksgiving. Jack's brother was picked up by a female rock climber on 11/23 and was TAKEN to Moab. This climber kept our dog for a week before reporting it to the Humane Society, where I finally tracked him down on 12/3.

Jack is unfortunately still missing. She was wearing a brown leather collar with a brass nameplate riveted to it that clearly stated she lives at Dugout Ranch, along with all our contact information.

If anyone has any information at all, or someone in town has s dog matching her description, please contact us at this email or leave a message at 435-459-0018 . Feel free to email if you have any questions or need more information.

Also, I thought you should know this is not the first time this has happened. Perhaps if we can get the word out, this type of thing will happen less frequently. I am planning to post flyers at the kiosks down here as well.

Please advise people: If you see a "stray" dog at Indian Creek, bring it to the ranch to ask before you make any assumptions. The bottom line: you are climbing and camping on private and leased property, where these dogs live and work daily. Please have some common sense. Our dogs are very friendly and will not forgo attention! Because they let you pet them (or feed them!) does not mean they are strays.

Thank you,
Melinda & Adam Redd Dec 7, 2008
m-earle   USA
Larry, the perpetrator to said inscribing is a well known desert hermit (whose name rhymes with ralph). I doubt he spends much time on MP, so you might have to track him down in the field. While his practice of "inscribing" route names might not be the best idea, keep in mind that he has done a lot of work for Technicolor Wall, including building a trail. Dec 20, 2008
Just got back from a long labor day weekend in the Creek. NOBODY was there! All the popular camping and climbing was wide open. The weather was perfect as long as you stayed out of direct sun. I don't think that I saw more than one or two cars parked at Supercrack Buttress all weekend long!
Imagine showing up at Supercrack Buttress mid day on a saturday and having your pick of any climb!?! Yeah, that's how it was. Sep 8, 2009
If you are going to Indian Creek, which is proballly the best crack climbing inj the world and need a hotel after camping out, I reccomend Inn at the Canyons, in Monticello. It is 40 minutes closer to indian creek than moab, it's a very nice hotel and the owner is a climber and gives us $20.00 USD off if you just mention you are climbing Indian Creeek, Pretty cool. Indoor Pool, Hot tub, Break fast Inn at the Canyons 435 587-2458

This offer has since expired (3/9/16). Mar 26, 2010
1Eric Rhicard
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
After reading some stuff hear I thought our visit might be similar to surfing at one of So Cals hot breaks where fistfights are not uncommon. But as usual the climbers we met were great mostly friendly and really courteous. If they had a rope hanging and you wanted to lead the route. Even on the weekend when Cat Wall had a ton of cars and a lot of climbers it was busy but not unpleasant. Wait I mean it really sucked everyone had an attitude and the whole trip sucked.:) Mar 28, 2010
Sam Lightner, Jr.
Lander, WY
Sam Lightner, Jr.   Lander, WY
And don't forget the standard "the place is ruined, man." Mar 29, 2010
It looks like Cat, Reservoir and Slug walls are closed again for raptors through August 31. Are there any other seasonal closures? Apr 15, 2010
any particular incident, or just in general? Apr 3, 2012
purist, non-purist, semi-purist, antipurist.. It doesn't matter just "do you" and let other people "do themselves". All I know is I love indian creek and want to go back! but I have to go to work instead :( Sep 13, 2012
hey ya bunch of sand eating cam horders, i'm thinking about trying to organize the unnamed/unknown/newly-renamed routes a bit so that it is easier to find them when you are at the cliff. for example the 'unknown' 5.11 on the far left side of battle of the bulge buttress would be renamed 'unknown 5.11 RF corner with 2 bolts'. etc.

Curious to see if anybody has any heartburn about it, if not i will try to get started on some of the smaller walls first. this will probably take some trial and error, so if i muff one up feel free to criticize/slander accordingly.

also, i am going to try to go through and merge duplicate entries. this might take a while.

thanks. Dec 13, 2013
Hello All! Just wanted to update everyone; The Inn at the Canyons coupon has expired. The owner still loves climbers and would love to give everyone a great rate. Discount will vary depending on season and availability. Dec 31, 2013
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
Here goes, the fall rain is settling in on the NW for a few months so I will tackle this subject that has been nagging at me for 10 years or so.
I am only looking at BD Camalots to keep it simple.
I used to think it was the transition from old to new Camalots, but I find that even with the newer books there are discrepancies.

Supertopo 2013 Optimal C4 range sizes:
.3 - 3/4"
.4- 1"
.5 - 1 1/4"
.75- 1 1/2- 1 3/4"
#1 - 1 3/4 -2"
#2 - 2- 2 1/2"
#3- 3- 3 1/2"
#4 - 3 1/2- 4 1/2"
#5 - 4 1/2- 5 1/2"
#6 - 5 1/2 -7"

Actual Optimal C4 range sizes:

.3 - 5/8"
.4 - 3/4"
.5 - 1"
.75 - 1 1/4"
#1 -1 9/16'
#2 - 1 15/16"
#3 - 2 11/16"
#4 - 3 7/16"
#5 - 4 5/8'
#6 - 6"

Some might object that I am including 1/16", but you will see that even without the 1/16" the numbers are way off. I measured the cams working range too, but am just including the sweet spot, best position placement. I usually try to figure out for myself what cams are needed for any given pitch, but since Supertopo suggests rack sizes for routes this might confuse a few newer leaders.
I add this here because the Bloom books have the sizes sometimes off too. Jan 12, 2014
Shane Bates
Pequannock, New Jersey
Shane Bates   Pequannock, New Jersey
Anyone have information on climbing shops nearby or some beta for finding partners while in the area? Cheers

- in case anyone else needs this beta the nearest climbing shop is in Moab. Aprox. one hour drive from climbing areas. If your looking for partners supercrack butress is always full of people and there are also a number of message boards at the different campsites you can leave a note at for other singles. Oct 6, 2014
Grant Gerhard
Las Vegas, NV
Grant Gerhard   Las Vegas, NV
HELP! My friend took a nasty whipper and had to go to the ER, in short I left a size 9 pair of Astroman's and some quickdraws at the base of a climb at Battle of the Bulge. If anyone finds them I would be supremely grateful/can Venmo/Paypal. PM me Mar 23, 2015
Sam Elander
Bullhead City, AZ
Sam Elander   Bullhead City, AZ
I am thinking of going to Utah/Moab especially Indian Creek this Spring Break, does anyone have a list of like the top 10-20 routes we should do? A mix of finger, fist, and offwidth cracks would be awesome! (and maybe a fisher tower or two)?

Thanks! Nov 12, 2015
LOST! Some #2 BD Camalots and a #3.5 BD Camalot at Cat Wall near Tom Cat and Deseret Moon area. If you find them, I'd love to get them back and will even pay a sweet cash reward plus super good karma! Please PM me if you've seen the runaway cams. Apr 4, 2016
Hello anyone at 4x4 wall today!! (4-23-16) My partner lost his iPhone there today- in a white life proof case. Please call me if you find it! 303-217-3048. -Annie Apr 23, 2016
Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Gaar   Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Berkeley, CA
DylanJK   Berkeley, CA
what are the new camping fees (in established sites)? The BLM site has not been updated.… Oct 13, 2016
New camping fees are 5$ per night. Nov 17, 2016
Ernie Escobedo
New Mexico
Ernie Escobedo   New Mexico
Hey! Found a jacket in the middle of the road to the Bridger Jacks campground on Sunday (11/27/16). Let me know if it yours. Dec 3, 2016
There have been DUI checkpoints on hwy 211 going into and out of the Creek this past weekend (4/25/17). Be cautious with road sodas going in or leaving Mar 28, 2017
Jason Albino
San Francisco, CA
Jason Albino   San Francisco, CA
If you've never climbed here before, you're in for a truly unique experience.

As the guidebook outlines, spring and fall are the best-bet weather times in general, although the high dessert climate can be fickle at any point in those seasons - for example, in two trips during the same March week 2 years in a row, I experienced low-70s F highs one year and low-40s F highs the next year. Check and monitor… to be prepared, and give the rock at least 24 hours to dry after any rainfall.

A great tactic for a first visit is to borrow up multiple racks of cams (literally up to 8-10 sets of #.5-#4 cams is ideal to cover all climbs), and come with friends who've been here before and can do all or most of the leading, as the learning curve can be steep and you can easily spend a whole first trip flailing and frustrated. Instead, consider just starting with a top roping spree and working on different hand sizes and jam sequences ("swimming", "karate chopping", thumbs-down and thumbs-up jams, "fat hands" and fists) until you've cultivated the ability to trust your jams, rest on your toes, and cleanly toprope most of the climbs you can get on through 5.10/5.10+. Obviously, the usual caveats about sharing climbs thoughtfully and only top-roping off your draws/biners should apply.

Then go home and digest the outstanding Crack Climber's Technique Manual:…
and come back the next trip to try and lead what you top-roped the first trip.

For the third trip, maybe start dipping into crack sizes that aren't good fits for your hands (#1 cracks if you're big-handed, or #2-#3 cracks if you're small-handed), and so on.

I definitely had a lot more fun on 2nd and 3rd trips than I did the first, so approach this place with patience and you'll definitely be rewarded. Apr 10, 2017
Snowmass, CO
Luk   Snowmass, CO
Found a harness, on 5-23-17, that was left behind at the Way Rambo wall, right next to Blue sun and Way Nutter.... May 25, 2017
I found a black LG Nexus cell phone near the cattle gate at the entrance of Selfish Wall. I figured it was safer in someone's hands than out in the elements. I was able to find out the first name of the person who owns it. Tell me what the name is and I will gladly sent it to you in the mail. Dec 4, 2017
ctmeg Twohig
Middletown, CT
ctmeg Twohig   Middletown, CT
Found a Black Diamond Camalot C3 at the base of The Naked and Dead at Donnelly. If its yours, tell me the size and how its marked and I'll mail it back to you. Cheers! Apr 20, 2018
Please do not post photos of archeological sites, especially with location information. It can (and probably will) lead to looting and vandalism. May 1, 2018
Karl Kelley's new Creak Freak: Indian Creek Climbs is at the printer. It is available for pre-purchase and includes a free 2-year subscription to the Digital Edition, so you can start enjoying it now. The book is 448-pages and includes over 2000 routes (double the Bloom book).

The author is also donating 100% of his royalties to the Access and Sharp End is adding $1.00/book, as well.

A Limited Edition Bears Ears cover is available for pre-order.… Jul 2, 2018
Matthew Steiner
Bend, OR
Matthew Steiner   Bend, OR
How is the feel of Sandstone? Never have touched this type of rock before, the exposure, how tough the climbs are in realistic terms please, I'm very familiar with boulder problems/ropes but never attempted Trad before. Tuff, Basalt, and Granite are more familiar with me. Local young climber in Bend hoping to make a trip to St. George to see a friend who has a passion in climbing as much as myself. Been studying up on Mountain Project as much as possible, and have Trad gear back in LA. Willing to put it all to use finally. And really experience the Utah culture. Jul 7, 2018