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Routes in Pistol Whipped

Bulletproof Roof T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Chambered Round T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cocked T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Cowgirls Like em' Big T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Coyne Crack Simulator T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Coyote Essence T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dee is Dancing T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Desert Eagle T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dusty Trails to Nowhere T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fairy Tales T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Girls Just Wanna Have Guns T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Gun Fever T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hand Cannon T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Haters' Ball T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Have a Heart Donna T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Hijinx in the Desert T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Jolly Rancher T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Maverick T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Montana Weed Connection, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Nathan Martin T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Pistol Whipped T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ramrod T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Revenge of the Rock Gods T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Rock Out with Your Glock Out T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Rump Roast II T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sawed-Off Pump T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Scatter T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Short Round T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Short and Stupid T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sig Sauer T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Silencer, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Skidmarks T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Soul Assassin T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Spaghetti Western T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Steve's Wimpout T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Street Sweeper T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Tommy Gun T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Top Gun T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Trigger Finger T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unnamed 10+ Left of Sig Sauer T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unnamed 5.11 at top of trail T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unnamed 5.12 R of sig sauer T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Wolf's Ear T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Wounded Knee T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unsorted Routes:
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

A good area with a nice variety of climbs. Although somewhat remote, the climbing quality, concentration, and difficulty insures that this areas still sees a good amount of traffic. Most climbs reside in the 10+ range with a few 5.11 classics.

The buttress faces west and as a result gets good sun later in the day. With proper timing it's a good choice on both hot or cold days.

Getting There

From the Hwy 211/Beef Basin road junction head south several miles until you encounter a fence and cattle guard. A few hundred yards past this (the *second* road on the left) look for a well-maintained road that angles back to the northeast.

Take this road through an active creek (good 2WD's can make it) past the cottonwoods to another road junction. Turn right and go about a mile until you are directly under the point of the buttress where it starts to jut back east. Pull off the road and park. Road improvements in the past several years have trivialized the drive and taken a large chunk off the approach.

Find a cairned trail that follows a shallow wash (please take a second to find it!) and then up the talus to the base. From here, climbs fan out to either side, but take a topo or a knowledgable friend as very few plaques exist.

44 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Pistol Whipped

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 108
Skidmarks
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 240
Jolly Rancher
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 96
Dusty Trails to Nowhere
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 42
Chambered Round
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 166
Wounded Knee
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 73
Revenge of the Rock Gods
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 15
Girls Just Wanna Have Guns
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 52
Steve's Wimpout
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 185
Coyne Crack Simulator
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 191
Spaghetti Western
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 51
Rump Roast II
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 55
Coyote Essence
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 81
Sig Sauer
Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 14
Pistol Whipped
Trad 3 pitches
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 20
Unnamed 5.12 R of sig sauer
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Skidmarks
 108
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Jolly Rancher
 240
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Dusty Trails to Nowhere
 96
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Chambered Round
 42
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Wounded Knee
 166
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Revenge of the Rock Gods
 73
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Girls Just Wanna Have Guns
 15
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Steve's Wimpout
 52
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Coyne Crack Simulator
 185
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Spaghetti Western
 191
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Rump Roast II
 51
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Coyote Essence
 55
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Sig Sauer
 81
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Pistol Whipped
 14
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad 3 pitches
Unnamed 5.12 R of sig sauer
 20
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad
More Classic Climbs in Pistol Whipped »

Weather Averages

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Photos

Chris M
Seattle, WA
Chris M   Seattle, WA
As of November 09, a wash has taken out part of the road half way between the cottonwoods and the parking area. A route has been made through the washout and it is passable in a high clearance vehicle with 2WD. Due to the steepness of the drop in and out of the wash, and the short distance, a low clearance or vehicle with a long wheelbase might auger its front end into the opposite bank. Just a heads up since this spot may get worse in the future. Nov 19, 2009
Ty Tyler
Tucson, AZ
Ty Tyler   Tucson, AZ
As of March 21, 2015 there is a NEW approach trail to Pistol Whipped Wall. The Rocky Mountain Field Institute, Access Fund and Front Range Climbing Stewards wrapped up the new trail construction and closure of the old trail. The BLM has constructed a parking lot for climbers to use.

The new trail is located 1/4 mile beyond the old parking lot/trail. There is a cleared parking lot on the right side of the road. The new trail heads toward the crag from a lone juniper tree & cairn across the road. This new trail meanders up the rocky slopes above making use of more than 500 rock steps along the way. Please be sure to stay on this new trail to prevent plant & soil damage.

Please use this trail and allow the old one to recover. Mar 24, 2015
Does anyone have beta on new route that starts 1 foot right of "Have a Heart Donna" on Pistol Whipped's left side? FA? Name? It's a great route starting with tight rings to thin hands, a short crack switch left and finishing with thinning hands to fingers. Appeared very new and a bit sandy. About 60' long and probably .12a. A blank plaque was perched at the start. Thanks in advance. Nov 2, 2016
Dylan Rolley
Fort Collins
Dylan Rolley   Fort Collins
Lost a pair of TC pros here on 11/19/17. They are size 42.5 I believe. I was climbing here with a group after hitchhiking. I will pay for shipping if you have them. They are in pretty good condition and I would really like them back. Thanks! Nov 22, 2017

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