Type: Trad, 110 ft (33 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 551 total · 14/month
Shared By: matt hoffman on Mar 24, 2022
Admins: slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane

You & This Route


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Warning Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities! DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

The Smoker's Lounge -- easy to walk by, hard to forget

Climb a crux left leaning tips crack until it meets with the obvious steep corner.  Some helpful stemming and a nice back rest on that protruding block lead toward the imposing offwidth.  A long section of baggy 4s and tight 5s gradually ease into 6s before meeting with a ledge and getting all up in there to clip the chains.  

I don't know why it's called the smoker's lounge, but I did seriously feel like I needed a cigarette after this one.

The OW is listed elsewhere as "secure 5.10+" and "5.11a" but I honestly felt like it was a pretty rugged 11+ for me.  Overhanging tight 5s?? I cannot get my knee in there...

Not exactly sure on the length for this one.  We scrambled up to a comfy belay on the ledge below the crack, and then rapped to the ground with an 80, I'm pretty sure a 70 would work too.  From the ledge the pitch is only 80-90 ft.  

Location Suggest change

Just right of Short and Stupid, now known as p1 of Soul Assassin

Protection Suggest change

(1x) .1, (1-2x) .2, (3-4x) .3, (1x) .5, (1x) #4, (1-2x) #5, (2x) #6

Photos

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