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Unnamed 10+ Left of Sig Sauer
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 2.3 from 13
votes
Routes in Pistol Whipped
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Bulletproof Roof T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Chambered Round T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cocked T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Cowgirls Like em' Big T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Coyne Crack Simulator T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Coyote Essence T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Dee is Dancing T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Desert Eagle T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Dusty Trails to Nowhere T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fairy Tales T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Girls Just Wanna Have Guns T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Gun Fever T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Hand Cannon T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Haters' Ball T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Have a Heart Donna T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Hijinx in the Desert T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Jolly Rancher T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Maverick T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Montana Weed Connection, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Nathan Martin T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Pistol Whipped T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Ramrod T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Revenge of the Rock Gods T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Rock Out with Your Glock Out T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Rump Roast II T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Sawed-Off Pump T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Scatter T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Short Round T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Short and Stupid T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sig Sauer T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Silencer, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Skidmarks T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Soul Assassin T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Spaghetti Western T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Steve's Wimpout T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Street Sweeper T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Tommy Gun T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Top Gun T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Trigger Finger T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Unnamed 10+ Left of Sig Sauer T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Unnamed 5.11 at top of trail T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Unnamed 5.12 R of sig sauer T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Wolf's Ear T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Wounded Knee T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Trad, 80 ft |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 750 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Jesse Ryan on Apr 20, 2003 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: Please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat wall and Reservoir wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: Please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat wall and Reservoir wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
Description
A worthwhile route on the far far right side of Pistol Whipped. Located just to the left, around the corner from Sig Sauer. Climbs the left facing handcrack up the initial pillar to its top. The crack then heads directly onto the face, staying hands and fists to start, with a crux OW finish. When I did this a few years ago it was quite sandy, but still fun to do despite the added difficulty. In fact many of the routes at Pistol Whipped and the Creek in general seem to get pretty sandy after the monsoon runoffs. The rating reported is my opinion - not consensus, as it isn't graded in any guide I've seen. Might feel like 11- if particularly dirty, but probably just 10+, possibly less? You tell me. Anchor bolts are at a pod after the OW section, but before the crack kicks past vertical,less than 100' up, but may be more than 80'.
Photos
- No Photos -
Boulder, CO
It quickly goes to big hands at the start, step behind the pillar and stem up with a #.75 (BD) to a tricky transition from the pillar (the top wobbles) to the crack (a bit sandy/loose here, watch out).
The OW section takes BD #4, #5, and even #6. If one were to sew this section up, take two #4's, two #5's, and one #6. With some trading and walking, one set is totally fine.
Doubles from #.75 to #3, and then OW pieces. And maybe a finger size piece for the top if you're a wimp like me. Nov 13, 2009
Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Golden, CO
The Bloom guide recommends one 4 inch cam which I thought undershot the mark pretty substantially, but I also felt the above gear recommendations were a bit excessive. I think with either two #4 C4s or one #4 and one #5, one could be very safe throughout the wide section. Leave the #6 on the ground.
I placed (in no particular order): one #2 Camalot, two #3 Camalots, one 0.75 Camalot, one 0.5 Camalot, one orange Metolius, and one #4 C4. Placing 7 or so pieces felt more than adequate considering the rests. Nov 12, 2014
Fort Collins, CO