Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 793 total · 4/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on Apr 20, 2003
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


17 Opinions

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

A worthwhile route on the far far right side of Pistol Whipped. Located just to the left, around the corner from Sig Sauer. Climbs the left facing handcrack up the initial pillar to its top. The crack then heads directly onto the face, staying hands and fists to start, with a crux OW finish. When I did this a few years ago it was quite sandy, but still fun to do despite the added difficulty. In fact many of the routes at Pistol Whipped and the Creek in general seem to get pretty sandy after the monsoon runoffs. The rating reported is my opinion - not consensus, as it isn't graded in any guide I've seen. Might feel like 11- if particularly dirty, but probably just 10+, possibly less? You tell me. Anchor bolts are at a pod after the OW section, but before the crack kicks past vertical,less than 100' up, but may be more than 80'.

Protection

Gear from approximately 1.5 to 4 inches. At least doubles from 2.5 to 4 inches, possibly more, particularly at hand to fist sizes.

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tooTALLtim
Boulder, CO
  5.10+
tooTALLtim   Boulder, CO
  5.10+
This is one of those fun routes of all sizes.

It quickly goes to big hands at the start, step behind the pillar and stem up with a #.75 (BD) to a tricky transition from the pillar (the top wobbles) to the crack (a bit sandy/loose here, watch out).

The OW section takes BD #4, #5, and even #6. If one were to sew this section up, take two #4's, two #5's, and one #6. With some trading and walking, one set is totally fine.

Doubles from #.75 to #3, and then OW pieces. And maybe a finger size piece for the top if you're a wimp like me. Nov 13, 2009
Gaar
Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Gaar   Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Used 1 -.75, 2-#1, 2-#2, 2-#3, 3.5, and old 4....would take a 4.5 if I did it again...Pretty fun little route. But not hands like the book says Oct 24, 2012
Dave Alie
Golden, CO
Dave Alie   Golden, CO
I hopped on this to kill time while some friends were on nearby routes and I was also surprised by the content of the pitch. I was also surprised how secure the climbing was despite the wideness and extremely sandy upper half. There are an excess of good rests on this route.

The Bloom guide recommends one 4 inch cam which I thought undershot the mark pretty substantially, but I also felt the above gear recommendations were a bit excessive. I think with either two #4 C4s or one #4 and one #5, one could be very safe throughout the wide section. Leave the #6 on the ground.

I placed (in no particular order): one #2 Camalot, two #3 Camalots, one 0.75 Camalot, one 0.5 Camalot, one orange Metolius, and one #4 C4. Placing 7 or so pieces felt more than adequate considering the rests. Nov 12, 2014
Andy W
Fort Collins, CO
 
Andy W   Fort Collins, CO
 
#4 and 5 make the end feel ok, but keep a .75/1 or take a second 5 to protect while walking the big pieces. Excellent climb thoroughly enjoyed by everyone in our party. Apr 16, 2018