Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Laurent Meillon and Anders the Viking
Page Views: 2,292 total · 13/month
Shared By: Laurent Meillon on Oct 9, 2004
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


30 Opinions

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Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

From know Pistol Whipped routes, walk 8 minutes right. Stop 20 ft left of the one large lonely tree. Climb 2 thin cracks. Start with left thin crack on slabby face, transfer to right thin crack. After left crack ends, right Crack ocasionally widens, providing some hand jams and rest. The Anchor is just left of the crack, where it goes chimney wide.This climb is unusual for Indian Creek, requiring good feet placement outside the cracks.

The climb was put up in memory of Dee Johnson, a Devil's Lake,WI lady who climbed into her 70s and inspired many with her broad, wholesome smile and her flowing, effortless movement on the rock.

Protection

(1) #0.5, (2 each) #0.75,#1,#2, (1) #3 Friends, set of sm. & med. nuts, draws and longs.Anchor: 2 12-mm Bolts Anchor with rap ring. It would be nice to add a chain on the top bolt to replace the 11mm rope.

Photos

tooTALLtim
Boulder, CO
  5.10+
tooTALLtim   Boulder, CO
  5.10+
Thanks for equipping this fine route! Nov 13, 2009
Chris M
Hailey, ID
  5.10+
Chris M   Hailey, ID
  5.10+
Steep and quality route that offers something different than most other climbs at the Creek- technical footwork. The rock is a bit soft over here, so heads up. Nov 19, 2009
slim

  5.10d
slim    
  5.10d
fun route. the hike over there isn't as far as it looks, so go do it! Nov 8, 2010
Jake Dickerson
Lander, WY
  5.10d
Jake Dickerson   Lander, WY  
  5.10d
This climb is sick! Very unique for indian creek and there are sweet finger locks and a crack transfer with pretty good feet. Definitely worth the walk. There is a bolted chain anchor. Nov 29, 2015
Alex Jacques
Burlington, CT
 
Alex Jacques   Burlington, CT
 
My rating bumped this from 2.5 stars to 3. Yeah that's right. It's GREAT bitches Mar 25, 2016