Type: Trad
FA: Steve Hong
Page Views: 21,081 total · 102/month
Shared By: Ben F on Mar 22, 2002
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

264 Opinions

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Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details


Yet another sexy crack at the Creek. To find this beauty, head WAY right when you reach the wall. Just before a drop-off is this spitter appears. It is long... It also has a few pods in it and meanders a little. When I climbed the route, there was a plaque at its base (just in case you can't recognize this good crack). This climb has been given an R rating by some because of a blocky section. Most of this short section is solid and will protect. Also, a second bolt is at the anchor now to supplement the FA's creative metal work.

Jolly Rancher begins as tight hands (2 Friend/1Camalot) and slowly widens. The majority of this pitch was cupped hands (wide 3 Friend/tight 3 Camalot). Worry not - cupped hands make for good feet. Towards the top, the size narrows to fingers at the somewhat blocky section and foot holds appear on the last bit.


Gear required for this pitch ranges from 3/4 to 4 inches. Bring 3 or 4 pieces in the 2 to 2.5" range, at least 6 3" pieces, at least 3 3.5" pieces and save a second 1" piece to back-up the belay. This route is about 140' and requires 2 ropes for the rap.
Hong route. Nov 4, 2004
Jason Haas
G1 Climbing + Fitness
Jason Haas   G1 Climbing + Fitness
I do not think this route is "R" rated. The blocky section up top is about 10ft. long and can safely be protected both before and after it. Be sure to bring double ropes for this route. a 70meter rope will leave you about 15ft. off the deck even with stretch. Oct 3, 2006
Danny Inman
Danny Inman   Arvada
Very nice route, if #3 BDs are your size, get on this thing. As for the "R", no way this is an R. As Jason Haas said, bomber gear below and immediately after the blocky section. Dec 6, 2006
Bjorn   WNC
Great route description. Can't wait to hit it. Jul 21, 2008
mikejohnson1 Johnson
Essex Junction, VT
mikejohnson1 Johnson   Essex Junction, VT
Best route in the Creek. 150ft of varied climbing. Thin hands, perfect hands, wide hands, fingers, ringlocks, even a little offwidth. Probably the best route i have ever climbed. Make sure to bring some small stuff for the top (single set of camalots from .3 to .75 ought to do). Oct 20, 2009
Boulder, CO
claytown   Boulder, CO
agree that this route has slammer gear the whole way up it. no chance it is R rated Nov 9, 2009
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
Since it is confusing, as Camalots are not "inch-sized" a majority of the 3-3.5" pieces that could be placed are fine with #3 camalots. A few placements are better with #3 friends, but nothing larger is required at all.

I also agree that the route is not R rated. A leader should be advised not to put a cam in behind the first flake down low, becuase if it caught a fall, I think it would pop (a 1000# wedge shaped flake kept in by dirt and rockchips) and kill a few people, starting with the climber hanging below it and then, after cutting the rope, pootentially going on to crush anyone at the base...
The route is not runout, but not for the foolish, either.

The route is close to 150' tall. Take a rope nad a tag line when leading. This also allows you to pull up more rack on the tag line if you decide you need it. Apr 12, 2010
Greg Gavin
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
best single pitch i've climbed in the desert. Sep 14, 2010
Dane Casterson
Dane Casterson   Boulder
So good. Just keeps getting better the higher you climb. Mar 5, 2011
S Denny
Aspen, CO
S Denny   Aspen, CO
my sterling (read: long) 80m got down with 5 feet to spare Nov 30, 2012
so good. lowered easy with 80m. crux off the deck thin hands? maybe for me. Nov 30, 2012
Some wankstain tossed the plaque. When will it end? Mar 24, 2013
San Francisco
BFK   San Francisco
Definitely one of the best routes I've ever done and the best route I did during my trip to the creek. Long, sustained and yet has several defined cruxy sections to keep you focused. Nov 13, 2013
smassey   CO
This past week the anchor was updated with 2 1/2"x 4.5ish 5-piece by someone other than me. The classic Hong anchor was a 1/2" lag bolt pounded into a dry hole. The aluminum "hanger" was quite stress-fractured. Thanks for the work, sir! Mar 29, 2015
Laramie, WY
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
I felt that the offwidth pods took away from the quality of the route, lowering it from "best in Creek" to probably "best at crag". Definitely want to tape on this if your wide hands technique is not on lock. Nov 29, 2015
grog m
grog m   Saltlakecity
The variety and length of this route make it one of my favorite routes anywhere. Just an absolute blast Sep 9, 2016
Dylan Rolley
Fort Collins
Dylan Rolley   Fort Collins
Lost a pair of TC pros here on 11/19/17. They are size 42.5 I believe. I was climbing here with a group after hitchhiking. I will pay for shipping if you have them. They are in pretty good condition and I would really like them back. Thanks! Nov 22, 2017