Type: Trad, 85 ft
FA: Trevor Bowman, Emily Reinsel 4/12/13
Page Views: 879 total · 13/month
Shared By: Trevor Bowman on Jun 20, 2013
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Boulder out the face start to a bolt, layback up an acute flare, and up fingers lead to a shelf. The clean upper corner starts rattly fingers and opens to tight green camalots, work up this with laybacking/stemming/scumming until it finally hits tight hands where the corner fades out and the crack goes splitter. The final section is tight-hands and hands with wider pods on a steep slab. A great new addition to the wall which throws a lot at you!

Location

10' right of Fairy Tales. Plaqued.

Protection

(3x).4, .5, .75, 1, (2)2, (1)3---BD sizes
Chain/cold shut anchor

Photos

Flynn Mcfarland
Prescott, AZ
  5.11+
Flynn Mcfarland   Prescott, AZ
  5.11+
Such a quality and varied route! If you want some sweet stemming and technical climbing this has it. Nov 10, 2017
Anus Herder
Colona, CO
 
Anus Herder   Colona, CO
 
Can set a tr on fairytales off this guy! Good warmup/addition! 2 days ago