Type: Trad, 25 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,299 total · 16/month
Shared By: Wes Allen on Feb 28, 2002 with updates from Matt Pierce
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Nice and very short thin hands crack. Good intro to thin hands jamming. Would make a great warm up route.

Protection

(3) #1 Camalots or (2) #1 BD C4s and (1) #2 BD C4

Photos

The easiest way to climb this seems to be to jam your left foot while using your right foot to smear. Apr 16, 2002
A short but very enjoyable route and, as mentioned, a decent warmup for the desert...which can be difficult to find. A nice gentle intro to the desert...to bad it does not go on for another 100 feet.

J.B. Apr 28, 2003
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
 
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
 
Aptly named. Nearly impossible to grade due to its length. Takes 2 #1 camalots and 1 #2 camalots, or 1 #1 camalot and 2 #2 camalots. Certainly no harder than 5.9 Mar 16, 2012
Brian Alexander  
  5.8
Short but nice. Great warm up. Apr 21, 2012
Jan Tarculas
Riverside, Ca
  5.8+
Jan Tarculas   Riverside, Ca
  5.8+
would be a lot more fun if it was longer Oct 15, 2013
Derek Field
California
  5.9-
Derek Field   California
  5.9-
This is a perfect first trad lead. Bring two #1's and also a #2 for the top. I fail to understand how a route so straightforward and no-nonsense could possibly have a plus (+) attached to the grade. This is standard 5.9 crack climbing, and if anything it should have a minus (-) due to its brevity. I'd say Short & Sweet instead of stupid, but to each their own. Sep 26, 2016
Josh Tokioka
Kirkland, WA
Josh Tokioka   Kirkland, WA
Would love to rename this short and meaningful Nov 13, 2018