Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 2,849 total · 19/month |
Shared By: | Steven Lucarelli on Mar 13, 2013 |
Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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2025 Raptor Avoidance Areas. blm.gov/announcement/blm-as…
Map of closed areas: blm.gov/visit/indian-creek-…
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
Map of closed areas: blm.gov/visit/indian-creek-…
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
Not sure about the origin of the route name on this one but I was told that Nathan Martin has never climbed it. Reguardless this route is a must do if your up for the grade!
The climbing is hard as soon as you leave the ground with a steep tips lieback that I found to be the crux. Better fingers with some stances allow for easier progress as the crack gradually widens to .75 size. A few moves through these ringlocks get you to another stance and a bolt just past halfway. Above the bolt a second crux is encountered which consists of splitter .5 fingers with no feet. The final 10' to the anchor are chill .5 fingers with feet but you'll probably be pretty pumped so keep your guard up.
The climbing is hard as soon as you leave the ground with a steep tips lieback that I found to be the crux. Better fingers with some stances allow for easier progress as the crack gradually widens to .75 size. A few moves through these ringlocks get you to another stance and a bolt just past halfway. Above the bolt a second crux is encountered which consists of splitter .5 fingers with no feet. The final 10' to the anchor are chill .5 fingers with feet but you'll probably be pretty pumped so keep your guard up.
Protection
The gear for the start is pretty precise, I found that a .2 Camalot with a blue Mastercam stacked above it worked well for the initial moves off the ground. Depending on your reach a blue Metolius (if your shorter) or a green Alien fit perfect for the next piece. The rest of the gear is as follows:
(2).3, (3).4, (5).5 & (3).75, all in Camalots, and one bolt to clip. Anchor is two bolts with chains.
(2).3, (3).4, (5).5 & (3).75, all in Camalots, and one bolt to clip. Anchor is two bolts with chains.
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