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Shared By: Tony B on Mar 23, 2001
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Just to the Right of Coyne Crack Simulator, there is a set of right-leaning cracks that starts at the ground, and become a more singular crack that moves to the right at a wide spot (crux, protected by a #4 or 4.5 camalot). Run up the bottom, place good gear with a long sling in the wide spot, then OW-grovel or Power-layback a few moves around the wide flake, up and right, before coming to rest in the handcrack. Shoot for the top on 10- moves from there.

This climb is about 90' long. Using a single 60 Meter rope was no problem, but I am not so sure about a 50M.

Protection

A good rack of cams 1.5-4" with at least one #4 camalot. The crux is protected by a 4 or 4.5 camalot.

Photos