Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 987 total · 7/month
Shared By: Bryan K. on Oct 4, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This route is found at the top of the trail when you first arrive at the wall. Route starts on right side of block (loose) and begins with a short section of offwidth. Exit the offwidth with fingers in a right facing corner, make an corner switch, and continue up a left facing off-fingers corner (crux) to the anchor. The new guide book says this route is runout and that you'll need lowe balls. This description is incorrect, the route is well protected.

Protection

(2).5",(3).75",(4+)#.5 camalots,(3-4)#.75 camalots,(1)#1 camalot,(1)#2 camalot.
Anchor at top could use a little attention since this route doesn't get done much.

Photos

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Kevin Kent
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11+
Kevin Kent   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11+
Pretty sure FA is Hong, judging by the bolts at the top. There is also one newer bolt with chain.

Anyway this route is sweet and well protected. I opted to layback the OW at the start which worked quite well. Found it to be mega pumpy in the middle, which is sustained off-fingers in a corner. Oct 20, 2014
Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
  5.11
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
  5.11
Definitely a Hong route and a great one at that. Probably clocks in somewhere between the 11/11+ grade. Sep 13, 2016