Elevation: 4,099 ft
GPS: 38.563, -109.542 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 6,710,143 total · 27,836/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Dec 31, 2000 · Updates
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

From Moab to Monument Valley, the southeastern section of Utah is amazingly rich with bountiful opportunities for the rock climber who can appreciate the stark beauty of soft sandstone in a desert environment. There is more than a lifetime of climbing here!

Moab is a small community, located along US 191 at the intersection with SR 128 (River Rd) south of I-70, which has become popular with the climbing and mountain biking communities of late. Its elevation at 4025' make spring and fall make for the most pleasant times for visitors. It is generally quite dry here; however, wandering along the River Road after a large rainfall can provide spectacular waterfall viewing.

Here, you can find climbs ranging from 1 pitch sport climbs up to 600' desert spires to multi-day adventures on the 900' The Titan to 1200' ridge/aid climbs like Everyman's Endless Edge. Desert spires can be hauntingly beautiful like Moses, Zeus, and Aphrodite in Taylor Canyon. Of course, there is the world-class desert crack climbing of Indian Creek. There miles and miles of cliffs along the River Road. You will find a wide range of subtle variations in rock type: the splitter-crack-forming Wingate, the ultra-soft Entrada, the gorgeous Navajo, the oddly solid-yet crumbly Cutler, the interesting mid-layers of Chinle, Kayenta, and more. You must be cautious treading on desert rock for longer-than-you-think after any significant precipitation. Most folks will find the Wingate to be most inviting here.

You climbing armamentarium will likely include beefier ropes, helmets, plenty of cams, a healthy supply of tape, and likely some anti-inflammatories for afterwards. Most adventure climbs will require at least a double set of cams. New climbs may require investigation of the pro & cons of desert anchors like drilled angle pins vs. expansion bolts vs. glue-in bolts. You will likely find your gear shedding red sandstone dust for days after your visits. New climbs in the National Parks may require particular creativity for new anchors. Some adventure climbs will require high-clearance 4WD type vehicle to allow access.

You can climb truly roadside all the way to real adventure climbing. Weather can vary from extremes of debilitating heat to mud-trapping rain storms to frosty climes. Pay particular attention to quick-moving lightning storms, since these are probably a climber's biggest threat here.

Be particularly careful with the delicate cryptogametic soils in the area which are key in providing soil stability and microbiotic communities in what looks like mud.

There are some areas with strict regulations, particularly in the National Parks like Canyonlands N.P. and Arches N.P. So, check in advance. In particular, be extremely respectful of any petroglyphs or pictographs you find.

Nonetheless, come find your personal gems here....

Accomodations

There are a variety of options here which range from primitive bivies, to BLM camping for pay or not, to National Park camping, to motels or hotels in Moab, to fancy resort/ranch accomodations along the River Road or Castle Valley, to bed & breakfasts in Moab.

Guidebooks

There have been a decent assortment of rock guidebooks to the area. E. Bjornstad's Desert Rock, Desert Rock I, Desert Rock II, Desert Rock IV, F. Knapp's Classic Desert Climbs, M. Comacchione's 200 Select Classic Indian Creek guidebook, Sharp End's Indian Creek Climbs, & S. Green's Rock Climbing Utah can provide starting points for your adventures.

For ice climbers, consider, D. Black's Ice Climbing Utah by Falcon Press.

Rest day activities

If you must rest, you can select from options like rafting, mountain-biking, hiking, petroglyph viewing, wine tasting at the Castle River wineries, flying, fishing, canyoneering, and general tourist activities here. Moab provides a central point for a wealth of non-climbing adventures.

Organizations

Note, that the Access Fund in conjuction with dedicated local climbers have been particularly pivotal in the area in preserving access to these local & national treasures. Immense thanks to those involved!

2,966 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Southeast Utah Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Southeast Utah

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 748
North Chimney
Trad 4 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 1,077
Supercrack of the Desert
Trad 3 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 1,121
Incredible Hand Crack
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A0
 1,217
Stolen Chimney
Trad, Aid 4 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 561
Jah Man
Trad 5 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 505
Fine Jade
Trad 5 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 279
North Face
Trad 3 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 361
Pente
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 327
Lightning Bolt Cracks
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 192
Sinestra
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 148
Jupiter Crack
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 142
Primrose Dihedrals
Trad 7 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 406
Annunaki
Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 300
Way Rambo
Trad
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 111
Slice and Dice
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
North Chimney Castle Valley > Castleton Tower
 748
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 4 pitches
Supercrack of the Desert Indian Creek > Supercrack Buttress
 1,077
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Incredible Hand Crack Indian Creek > Supercrack Buttress
 1,121
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Stolen Chimney Fisher Towers > Ancient Art
 1,217
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A0 Trad, Aid 4 pitches
Jah Man Castle Valley > Sister Superior Group
 561
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 5 pitches
Fine Jade Castle Valley > Rectory
 505
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 5 pitches
North Face Castle Valley > Castleton Tower
 279
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 3 pitches
Pente Indian Creek > Reservoir Wall
 361
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Lightning Bolt Cracks Indian Creek > N Six Shooter Peak
 327
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Sinestra Indian Creek > Original Meat Wall
 192
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Jupiter Crack Indian Creek > Sparks Wall
 148
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Primrose Dihedrals Island In The Sky > Moses
 142
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad 7 pitches
Annunaki Indian Creek > Optimator
 406
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Way Rambo Indian Creek > Way Rambo
 300
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Slice and Dice Indian Creek > Way Rambo
 111
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad
More Classic Climbs in Southeast Utah »

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