Type: Trad
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Shared By: Orphaned User on Mar 31, 2001
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


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Access Issue: No Toilet Facilities! Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas - In Effect Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This climb is located not too far to the right of the approach trail as you face the cliff.This climb is the left of 2 nice looking cracks you will see as you arrive at the cliff. This climb starts as fingers/rattly fingers and widens at the top to cupped hands/tight fists (if your hands are small). The business has a left-facing offset similar to Coyne Crack at Super Crack Buttress - hence the name. This is a great choice for a first 11- lead in the Creek. There is a great stance (very small ledge) about 4 feet off the deck from here, you can place a piece or two high and gun it. The crux is short and the rock quality is good. It only gets 2 stars because its a short climb.

Protection

Bring one of each from 1.5 - 3.5 Friends. I did not have a 3.5 and was alright. This climb is short - probably no more than 50 or 60 feet. At the end of the crack step right to the anchors.

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