Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Jay Smith
Page Views: 9,515 total · 58/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on Sep 16, 2005
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Schweizerische Industrie Gesellschaft was an old school Swiss manufacturing firm. J. P. Sauer & Sohn is a German firm that markets world wide. Some history behind SiGARMS Sig Sauer handgun. Oh yeah, and the name given to a sweet finger splitter at the creek.

The far far right section of Pistol Whipped Wall sees less traffic and more sunshine than the main section. The approach trail and main section of routes lead right to the end of the main section of concentrated routes which end at Short and Stupid (5.8). From there a long section of undone and rarely done routes goes right about 200 yards until you reach a place to stop and climb. Three routes lie side by side, with Sig Sauer the center finger splitter. An unnamed hand to OW crack lies on the left (not a bad line - a little dirty maybe 10+/11-). A finger to and crack on the right (looks good - you tell me - not in the Bloom guide). Jolly Rancher, the quality long hand to wider crack is about 10 yards to the right of these three lines.

Now for SS. Climb the easier start through some pods, and with features to the start of the splitter finger seam. Cruise it to the anchors. Now ponder what it might be like to continue past the anchor. Thirteen at least.

Protection

From 2.5 to 0.5 inches. Heavy on 3/4 to 1 inch.

My Gear Wish list for this climb (With a typical grain of salt): BD sizes -- #1x1 #0.75x1 #0.5x1 #0.4x6 (or more) #0.3x1 and Metolius #3x2.

The BD #0.4 and Metolius #2 both worked equal well in the meat section.

Photos

Ryan Curry
  5.12-
Ryan Curry  
  5.12-
This climb was put up onsight by Jay Smith. Yellow aliens work great through the crux splitter fingers section. Beautiful! Jun 7, 2008
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
 
This is an awesome climb. Splitter fingers and tips with some feet and fun sequence. Highly recommended to make the hike to the right side of the cliff for this gem. Dec 18, 2008
D-Storm  
Very, very fun. If you've got sport climbing finger strength, enjoy yellow Aliens and are comfortable smearing steep varnish, this route will probably feel more like 5.11. Apr 6, 2010
Kurt Prond
Bozeman, MT
 
Kurt Prond   Bozeman, MT
 
I'm not bitter. Mar 19, 2012
Rafael Rovirosa
Salt Lake, UT
Rafael Rovirosa   Salt Lake, UT
Gear listed above is excessive. I used 2 each yellow, orange, and red metolius. If you want to sew it up take 4 yellow metolius and 2 each of the others. Dec 21, 2012
MaryH. Harlan
Carbondale, CO
MaryH. Harlan   Carbondale, CO
Great route for smaller fingers! Apr 8, 2015
Mike
Phoenix
 
Mike   Phoenix
 
Great route! It seemed tougher for big fingers, or maybe I'm just weak. May 18, 2015
"Now ponder what it might be like to continue past the anchor".
The Silencer

Nice job Mason Apr 4, 2016