Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,932 total · 13/month
Shared By: Mike fenice on May 23, 2006
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This is an excellent route located 30 feet to the right of Spaghetti Western that climbs the shallow but obvious right-facing corner and breaks from fingers to hands within the first 30 feet.

Start by climbing up the broken band off the ground and placing gear from the ledge, a yellow TCU and red alien should do! Work through the fingers and off fingers section and either jam or layback the green camalot section for 15 feet. The climbing remains physical to the top.

Protection

Double up on the 1.5 & 2 friends or bring two green camalots for the crux. You will also need a red alien for the start of the fingers section and hand size gear, 3-3.5 for the top.

Photos

m-earle
USA
m-earle   USA
While pulling onto the ledge at the anchors, my buddy's foot slipped, sending him on a 35-40 foot shit-yur-pants whipper ending over halfway down the route. Moral of the story? Don't run it out while trying on brand-new shoes. Apr 2, 2007
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
I thought the crux on this route quite burly. I remember doing it after Coyne Crack Simulator and thinking it was twice as hard. Aaah, the Creek... I propose a new grading system: "hard", "very hard", and "sadist". That should pacify the grade-chaser in all of us. Apr 11, 2007
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
short but cool route. easier than steve's to the right. Nov 13, 2008