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Hijinx in the Desert [Suggest Change]
5.11+ YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 2.9 from 26
votes
Routes in Pistol Whipped
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Bulletproof Roof T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Chambered Round T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cocked T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Cowgirls Like em' Big T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Coyne Crack Simulator T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Coyote Essence T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Dee is Dancing T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Desert Eagle T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Dusty Trails to Nowhere T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fairy Tales T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Girls Just Wanna Have Guns T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Gun Fever T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Hand Cannon T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Haters' Ball T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Have a Heart Donna T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Hijinx in the Desert T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Jolly Rancher T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Maverick T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Montana Weed Connection, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Nathan Martin T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Pistol Whipped T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Ramrod T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Revenge of the Rock Gods T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Rock Out with Your Glock Out T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Rump Roast II T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Sawed-Off Pump T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Scatter T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Short Round T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Short and Stupid T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sig Sauer T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Silencer, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Skidmarks T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Soul Assassin T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Spaghetti Western T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Steve's Wimpout T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Street Sweeper T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Tommy Gun T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Top Gun T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Trigger Finger T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Unnamed 10+ Left of Sig Sauer T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Unnamed 5.11 at top of trail T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Unnamed 5.12 R of sig sauer T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Wolf's Ear T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Wounded Knee T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,903 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Darren Mabe on Sep 29, 2007 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: Please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat wall and Reservoir wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: Please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat wall and Reservoir wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
Description [Suggest Change]
Just plain awesome. Hijinx is an apparently overlooked line just left of Dusty Trails. This is possibly due to Bloom's description as "fingers to thin hands in right facing offset". Well, he didnt mention a small roof to pull around as you are changing corners.
Begin from a small shelf at the base with wide fingers (#1 FR and #.5 Cam) to a few ringlocks (#.75 Cam). good hands lead to tight hands (#1 Cams)in the right facing corner (a few good rests), leading up to the roof. Pull around on good hands (#2Cam) into a tight left facing V-Slot corner with tight hands (SlotMachine-esque). I thought this was the crux, although I actually chimneyed/kneebarred the V-Slot for the final 20 feet leading to the anchors past the wide ringlocks(more #75s).
Begin from a small shelf at the base with wide fingers (#1 FR and #.5 Cam) to a few ringlocks (#.75 Cam). good hands lead to tight hands (#1 Cams)in the right facing corner (a few good rests), leading up to the roof. Pull around on good hands (#2Cam) into a tight left facing V-Slot corner with tight hands (SlotMachine-esque). I thought this was the crux, although I actually chimneyed/kneebarred the V-Slot for the final 20 feet leading to the anchors past the wide ringlocks(more #75s).
Location [Suggest Change]
about 30 feet left of Dusty Trails. You will see the obvious V-Slot corner at the top after the roof.
Protection [Suggest Change]
something like:
(1) #.4 Cam
(1) #.5 Cam
(4) #.75 Cams
(5) #1 Cams
(3) #2 Cams
(1) #.4 Cam
(1) #.5 Cam
(4) #.75 Cams
(5) #1 Cams
(3) #2 Cams
Boulder, CO
DURANGO
Boise, Idaho
Moab, UT
UT