Type: Trad, 310 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Ruckman bros
Page Views: 5,010 total · 24/month
Shared By: Max Schon on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Damn this route is cool. Pitch 1: some fingers and stemming. 5.10+. There is not a fixed nut here, as described in Stewart-Green's guide. Pitch 2: a burly 5.11 offwidth move leads to killer thin hands that pull over a bulge onto the exposed face. A hanging belay awaits. Pitch 3: Time to get serious. Lots of #2 friends and purple camalots protect this pitch. The curving offset splitter is unrelenting. Either send this pitch, or get Pistol Whipped!

Rap: A double rope rap from the top to a roomy ledge. Another double rope rap (maybe single, but you already got the ropes tied together) to the ground.

Protection

Lots of thin hands and rattly fingers. A #4 Camalot will help on the second pitch.

Photos

tooTALLtim
Boulder, CO
tooTALLtim   Boulder, CO
I brought up a #6 for the slot after contemplating it (thrutching) for a while. Apr 14, 2012
dameeser
denver
dameeser   denver
I would also agree that a #6 would be nice. We took a #4 camalot and although it fit, it could easily be knocked out. Which it did. Also, please be careful at the belay of the 3rd pitch. Those anchors need to be replaced.

Matt Oct 26, 2012
Matt Pesce
moab, ut.
 
Matt Pesce   moab, ut.
 
#5 and #6 friend definitely helpful. no perfect hands for the average guy hand. didn't use a single #2 or #3 camalot. many .5 camalot and 1.5 friends Jun 22, 2013
MaryH. Harlan
Carbondale, CO
MaryH. Harlan   Carbondale, CO
This is an awesome route, with plenty of diversity from start to finish- feels like you're climbing a tower! Bring lots of thin hands- sized gear, fingers for the 1st pitch, & a #5 for the start of the 2nd pitch. This route can be done with one 70 meter rope. Apr 8, 2015
Brian Prince
morro bay, ca
  5.12
Brian Prince   morro bay, ca
  5.12
'somehow' i got hosed. so bring at least 6 x .75s and 5 x .5s. and the offwidth is very cruxy. definitely want the 5 Dec 10, 2017