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Pistol Whipped

5.12-, Trad, 310 ft (94 m), 3 pitches,  Avg: 3.8 from 22 votes
FA: Ruckman bros
Utah > Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Pistol Whipped
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Description

Damn this route is cool. Pitch 1: some fingers and stemming. 5.10+. There is not a fixed nut here, as described in Stewart-Green's guide. Pitch 2: a burly 5.11 offwidth move leads to killer thin hands that pull over a bulge onto the exposed face. A hanging belay awaits. Pitch 3: Time to get serious. Lots of #2 friends and purple camalots protect this pitch. The curving offset splitter is unrelenting. Either send this pitch, or get Pistol Whipped!

Rap: A double rope rap from the top to a roomy ledge. Another rap to the ground.

Protection

Lots of thin hands and rattly fingers. A #4 Camalot will help on the second pitch.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Matthew Kleinert exits the chimney.
[Hide Photo] Matthew Kleinert exits the chimney.
Matthew Kleinert high on P2.
[Hide Photo] Matthew Kleinert high on P2.
Climbers high up on the third pitch.
[Hide Photo] Climbers high up on the third pitch.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

tooTALLtim
Vanlife
[Hide Comment] I brought up a #6 for the slot after contemplating it (thrutching) for a while. Apr 14, 2012
Matt Pesce
moab, ut.
 
[Hide Comment] #5 and #6 friend definitely helpful. no perfect hands for the average guy hand. didn't use a single #2 or #3 camalot. many .5 camalot and 1.5 friends Jun 22, 2013
MaryH. Harlan
Carbondale, CO
[Hide Comment] This is an awesome route, with plenty of diversity from start to finish- feels like you're climbing a tower! Bring lots of thin hands- sized gear, fingers for the 1st pitch, & a #5 for the start of the 2nd pitch. This route can be done with one 70 meter rope. Apr 8, 2015
Brian Prince
reno
  5.12
[Hide Comment] 'somehow' i got hosed. so bring at least 6 x .75s and 5 x .5s. and the offwidth is very cruxy. definitely want the 5 Dec 10, 2017
Kevbert Seivin
Golden, CO
  5.12-
[Hide Comment] If you bring a lot of gear you'll spend all your energy placing it... probably 4 x 0.75s and 4 x .5s would be reasonable for the last pitch. Definitely bring the right pro for the off-width, it was awkward but... manageable. Jul 29, 2020