Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,779 total · 8/month
Shared By: Craig Quincy on Sep 29, 2001
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


53 Opinions

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Off finger and thin hand cracks don't come easy. Eventually, the nuances of the ring lock, the meat lock, the toe jam smear and the pain-is-my-friend jam become second nature. I'm still waiting for that day. If, like me, your skills are in need of some honing, then this varied and aesthetic route will offer some schooling.

The gear is bomber. A couple rests can be found along the way. And, some foot holds on the face provide relief for the toes. The last few feet to the anchor are the crux, a thin splitter hand crack.

Identify this route by its long thin crack and its left facing slot/overhang near the top. It is located on the left side of the cliff between Dusty Trails to Nowhere and a short off width flake called Twelve Point Buck.

Protection

1 #1 TCU, 2 #2 TCUs, 4 #3 TCUs, 6 #4 TCUs, 3 #5 TCUs & 1 #2.5 Fr.

Photos

Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
  5.11
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
  5.11
I thought this was a great route, nice and sustained all the way to the anchor. Apr 16, 2007
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
Really fun route. Thin opening moves to easier ground to a tough offset .75 crack out of the pod. Tought me how to finger stack though. Works well for this size.

CL Oct 21, 2008
Brian Adzima
San Francisco
 
Brian Adzima   San Francisco
 
Several really good rests at pods if you work your feet out on the face. Mar 31, 2009