Type: Trad, 140 ft (42 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 30,311 total · 127/month
Shared By: Orphaned User on May 12, 2001 · Updates
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


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Access Issue: No Toilet Facilities! Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas - In Effect Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: RAPTOR AVOIDANCE. Also, Portions of Reservoir Wall are on private land and should not be climbed. Details

Description

The first path leading to the wall puts you near this climb. Look for a large, I mean really large, detached block at the wall. Pente is the striking line just to the left as you face the wall. Look for a small alcove start with a crack on the right side (left facing), that pulls a small roof and leads to a small ledge. At this ledge, you should see some slings. The line then moves a few feet to the left to start the awesome and steep splitter. This section is mostly red camalot size with a few slightly larger pods in it. This leads to another small ledge. Above the ledge, the crack turns to a thinning left facing dihedral (mostly .75 Camalot). Catch your breath at the ledge and motor for the anchors. This climb is freaking awesome - varied and challenging.

Protection

Bring a heaping helping of #1 camalots. Some 2 and 2.5 Friends would also work. Also bring 2 or 3 #2 Camalots/3 Friends and the same goes for .75 Camalots/1.75 Friends. For the very top, you can place a couple pieces in the .5 Camalot range. You will need 2 ropes to rappel as this pitch is somewhere around 140 ft.

Photos