Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 26,726 total · 122/month
Shared By: Ben F on May 12, 2001 with improvements by Alex Temus
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

325 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: RAPTOR AVOIDANCE. Also, Portions of Reservoir Wall are on private land and should not be climbed. Details


The first path leading to the wall puts you near this climb. Look for a large, I mean really large, detached block at the wall. Pente is the striking line just to the left as you face the wall. Look for a small alcove start with a crack on the right side (left facing), that pulls a small roof and leads to a small ledge. At this ledge, you should see some slings. The line then moves a few feet to the left to start the awesome and steep splitter. This section is mostly red camalot size with a few slightly larger pods in it. This leads to another small ledge. Above the ledge, the crack turns to a thinning left facing dihedral (mostly .75 Camalot). Catch your breath at the ledge and motor for the anchors. This climb is freaking awesome - varied and challenging.


Bring a heaping helping of #1 camalots. Some 2 and 2.5 Friends would also work. Also bring 2 or 3 #2 Camalots/3 Friends and the same goes for .75 Camalots/1.75 Friends. For the very top, you can place a couple pieces in the .5 Camalot range. You will need 2 ropes to rappel as this pitch is somewhere around 140 ft.
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
Me and My 70 M rope say that this pitch is closer to 155' long. You'd need a 100M of cord to get off of it!

The thin section up top is not hard, but you are soooo pumped, so lay-backing is difficult. Apr 18, 2002
Josh Beck
Josh Beck  
Probably 160-165', a 70 would miss by a mile, bring 2 ropes. Excellent to the first ledge, a bit tedious and a bit of rope drag above. As others said, good to have a couple .5-.75 (Camalot) size pieces for the top. May 1, 2004
Does anyone know exactly when the block at the base collapsed? Yikes. Apr 13, 2006
Rob Kepley
Rob Kepley   Westminster,CO
What a stunning line. If you like #1 Camalot size cracks, then jump on this one. It just keeps on going... Oct 15, 2006
SirVato   Boulder
This Route Is sweeet!! #1s are usually pretty tough for me. I found that I just push through the thin stuff and every ten feet or so there seemed to be a GOOD hand jam.
For me the start was kind of awkward and, also when the steepness eases off and the crack thins for the final stratch to the anchors.
Not hard but your pumped and it seems your feet mey slip on the sandy-ish rock. Sep 18, 2007
Bring a heaping helping of #1 camalots

Indian Creek virgin on the east coast here... what constitutes a "heaping helping"? Sep 27, 2007
Pente is one of the finest crack routes I've climbed. Of course, the splitter is classic, but the left-facing corner above really gives the route its full value!

Take advantage of any rests you may find.

The gear recommendation in the new Bloom book is good. However, for peace-of-mind, one might consider taking an additional #2, #2.5, and/or #3.5 Friend(s). Oct 19, 2007
JoshuaTreeRunner David
Los Angeles
JoshuaTreeRunner David   Los Angeles
The route is loooong. My hands are average sized (not small) and this route is perfect hands for peeps with small hands. Nonetheless it was quite enjoyable and sustained for the long face splitter. Some rests here and there to help. Then the 2nd half is the layback (for me). Good rests is the 2nd half. TR'ed this and its my fav 5.11 at the creek. Nov 26, 2007
Clayton Rardon
Yucca Valley, CA
Clayton Rardon   Yucca Valley, CA
This has to be my favorite pitch of crack anywhere. End of story.

(Bring two ropes, a 70m doesn't cut it) Feb 17, 2008
Bart Paull
Golden, CO
Bart Paull   Golden, CO
This is hands down one of the best routes at the creek, especially in the 5.11 grade. Pretty much a hike if you know how to hand jam, the top part of the route is a bit of a sting in the tail though ... Don't make the mistake of taping for this route if you have bigger hands! Apr 6, 2008
Boulder, CO
claytown   Boulder, CO
70 won't come close to cutting it on this 160' route. Seriously this could be the best crack climb ever. As many stars as possible. It would have been wortj driving out to the creek just for this route.
6 yellow, 7 red, 3 green and 2 purple camalot shoud work (plus one draw & 1 shoulder sling).

CL Oct 27, 2008
How hard is the direct start to the upper crack? Jul 14, 2009
Courtney Pace   Sandy
Don't forget the .75's. At least 3 or 4. Save some juice for the end, it gets pretty spicy! Mar 18, 2010
Mr. Stevens
Boulder, CO
Mr. Stevens   Boulder, CO
Climbed this a few days ago and sand started flowing down the crack from the top of the first big ledge and coming out at the bottom. The sand was essentially flowing out of the crack for 2 minutes non-stop. Has this ever happened to anyone before? Definitely freaked me out a bit... Nov 27, 2012
Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA
Nelson Day   Joshua Tree, CA
I took 5 0.75 (green c4) cams and used all of them. You burn one right off the bat on the section before the roof. The upper section takes them well. I also took 9 #1 (red C4) and placed all of them. Such a good line! I didn't place any finger sized pieces. I did place one #3 c4 at the pod at the base of the main crack (just above the roof). I placed a couple #2 (yellow c4) cams as well at the roof. Oct 21, 2013
The chockstones just to the right of the climber in this picture: mountainproject.com/v/10604… are VERY LOOSE! Don't belay from the cave, but rather from the left side of the boulder at the base. It would be nice if someone can trundle the blocks on rappel (we didn't have a second rope, so had to be lowered with some shenanigans with an 80). Oh and btw, 80M doesn't make it - the climb must be close to 160, rather than 150. Mar 24, 2014
Kevin Kent
Flagstaff, AZ
Kevin Kent   Flagstaff, AZ
FA Hong? The plaque looks a lot like his others and I'm guessing he wouldn't have passed by this when doing the FA of Slot Machine. Nov 3, 2014
Ben Bauer
Denver, CO
Ben Bauer   Denver, CO
David Bloom is a total sandbagger on this route!!! He recommends 3 #2s for the route, all of which my partner and I placed within the first 30 feet of the route. However, more #2s are needed at the top of the splitter below the rest. I was placing 1s there and they were pretty damn tipped out. Good thing my partner and I felt comfortable at that size or else we coulda gotten hurt. Does anyone else notice that his gear recommendations are not adequate for most routes?? Oct 24, 2016
Denver, CO
VRP   Denver, CO
80m rope just barely makes it to the pointy boulder at the start with stretch! Mar 20, 2017
Save 2 (doable) 3 (comfortable) .75s for the final sections after the vertical 1s crack. Apr 17, 2017
Rachel Bell
Salt Lake City
Rachel Bell   Salt Lake City
Don't skimp on the 1's and .75s. The top is a little thin as well so milk that rest! Sep 14, 2018