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Routes in Reservoir Wall
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3 Chumps T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Act Your Age T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Arch Arrival T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Carruthers-Hauser T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Chachapoya T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cyborg T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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David's Second Movement T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Dr. Carl T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Dreadasaurus T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Ernie Used to Box T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Excuse Et Moi T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Excuse Station T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Feel the Funkness T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Finger Food T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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From Switzerland With Love T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Frosted Flakes T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Good Excuse T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Gurka T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Karl's Excuse T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Kelley Route 28 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Kelley Route 29 aka Three Fools T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Kelley Route 41 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Left Crack T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Less Than Zero T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Lonesome Dove T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Long Crack, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Machete T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Marvelous! T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Mega Bucks T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Merry Cherry T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Middle Crack T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Mud dahbber T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Ninja T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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No Excuse T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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On Look T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Overlook, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Pat's Crack T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Pente T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Pirate Treasure T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Pop Up! T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Raison D'être T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Raja T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Rawhide T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Rez Dawgs T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Sea of Heartbreak T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sharka Zulu T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Skank on the Hanglow T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Slot Machine T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Speedy Gonzales T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Sumo T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Three Fools aka Kelley Route 32 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Trust it T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Unknown T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Unknown 5.10 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unknown 5.11- (really long thin hands corner) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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unknown offwidth T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Unnamed 38 - wide to fists and kind of wavy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Unnamed 5.10 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unnamed 5.10 ( 45 in 2013 Edition) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Warm-Up Handcrack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wigglin' Worm T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Will-Mento T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
| Type: | Trad, TR, 120 ft (36 m) |
| GPS: | 38.08284, -109.56274 |
| FA: | Skyeler Congdon and Sam Feuerborn October 2011 (possible earlier ascent) |
| Page Views: | 1,218 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Skyeler Congdon on Jan 23, 2020 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities! Raptor Closures!
Details
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas.
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
Access Issue: Portions of Reservoir Wall are on private land and should not be climbed.
Details
Important - Stay off the part of the wall that faces the road. If you are looking down at the water, then you shouldnt be there. Access is touchy. Yes, there are good climbs there, but no, you dont want to ruin access for everyone and there are just a few hundred other good climbs in the Creek.
Description
Now that I'm back in full swing on the Proj, allow me to fill in some details on this obscure little gem.
Sam and I spotted, and then sacked up and led Sumo to the right. I'll never forget the mini-epic: once we were both at the gear anchor, it started pissing rain while we hand drilled. No rain gear, of course. We watched a flash flood-like waterfall cascade down the drainage east of the Cat Wall.
I couldn't help but notice that this open corner looked semi-decent, so after the anchor was in, I gave it go after things dried and found some pleasant, moderate climbing on it. Its not a classic by any means, but for someone who either doesn't have wide gear, or the necesary skills to lead Sumo, this is how a 10- leader could set up a TR. Plus, the wavy tight hands at the top are awesome!
Start up the corner beneath Sumo (shares bottom 30ft) that leads to a big ledge, instead of jumping into that monstrosity, move further left to the dihedral. The climb is varied and enjoyable. 2.5 stars.
Apparently there may be a direct start now?
FWIW, as this is an obscure route in the Warrior district, I chose a favorite, obscure Warrior culture from Northern Peru, especially because of the desert rain experience. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chachapoya_culture
Location
This is in the "Warrior" themed sector of Rez Wall, about 100 m left of Pente. Look for the obvious wide splitter of Sumo, which starts from a ledge about 30ft up. This climbs the dihedral to the left.
Protection
Might need some help here, I remember mostly hands and thin hands [EDIT: Apparently there's 30' of fingers at the top!). Is it douchey to say "A Standard Desert Rack"? at least triples from 0.3-0.4, and doubles to 2's. Definitely save some [0.3's and 0.4's) for the last 30 ft! Double length runners are helpful- but it may be even better to lead with two ropes, switching to a different cord once you reach the dihedral. Shares anchor with Sumo. 70m will BARELY make it (I think we used two 60's- just be heads up)!!
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